You said voltmeter, not temperature. No, you cannot run off the stock sensor. The stock intake only has 2 spots in front. You need to ditch the thermo-vacuum switch if you want to run both. That switch is part of the Transmission Controlled Spark Emissions System. It isn't needed at all. It decreases performance and gas mileage. I don't see another way with the stock iron intake. Maybe someone has another idea.
You can put a 3-way in for the temp sender and the new gauge bulb of you.want to keep the vac switch. It looks a little hokey though. I would do as Larry stated above, no new parts to buy.
One other question about the Poston covers. I saw push oil cap you are using and my question is did you have to do anything special to the hole you cut in the cover? Is there a grommet in the hole as well or does the push cap simply go into the metal. I know the breather tube on the stock covers has a grommet that I can adapt. I just want to make sure the oil cap seals correctly.
The push on cap I used is the link below. It uses the same hole size (1 1/4) as the breathers. The cap has a rubber nipple on the bottom that grips the hole. Nothing else needed. https://www.jegs.com/i/Billet-Specialties/135/23120/10002/-1
after you cut the hole with a hole saw did you have to do a lot to the hole as far as getting the aluminum smooth. I am sure the hole saw makes the hole a bit jagged. That's why I was wondering if there was a grommet to go over the somewhat sharp metal.
This is the oil cap I used, https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spectre-1738-Valve-Cover-Oil-Fill-Cap-Chrome-Push-In-Each,198183.html Very inexpensive, but it does the job. The one John linked looks much nicer. Billet Specialties has some nice products.
The one Larry used was unavailable through Jegs at the time I made my order so I just got the billet specialties one. I would go with the Spectre one.
One quick question about wiring in the accessory lights that are on the after market gauges. The instructions say I should wire them directly to the headlight switch. Can others tell me if that’s what they did or if you found a better source. I assume they should dim with the other instrument lights. Could I just tap into one of the instrument light wires instead?
So I have an update for you. My valve covers finally came in. So I spent today installing them. Everything went together fine and they look great. So now it was time to fire it up to check for leaks and the success of several other things suggested here. I hooked the battery back up, gave it a pump of the throttle and it fired right up. Larry, your tip about the high idle adjustment screw was great as it went right to high idle. The gauges I installed all work great. I let the car run for a while to insure no leaks and all was well, so I pulled it back into the garage and shut it off. I noticed that I did not pull it far enough in the garage so I got back in to start it up and move it and the car won't start!. It has that feel like a connection. In the start position everything works....radio, lights, fan, etc. It all works. The car just won't turn over. Even turning the key nothing dims at all, like there is no power to the starter. I had read a similar thread about this possibly being a ground or the fuseable link, but since it literally started minutes ago why would this just happen like this? I mean I started it. It ran. I shut it off and tried again and nothing! Would this symptom point to something special to look at first? Thanks for the help and happy thanksgiving!
If it’s an automatic try jiggling the gear shift while cranking, might be the neutral safety switch. You can try starting it in neutral also...
So you were correct. I turned the key while wiggling the shift lever and it turned over. So the neutral safety switch needs adjustment??? What is the best way to go about adjusting it???
There is an excellent description of this adjustment in the chassis manual, you use a drill bit to register the switch in a whole that is for this purpose... Glad to hear its something simple.
Is it possible you can send a copy of that page to me? I ordered my chassis manual but it has not arrived yet. Thanks
You don't need the chassis manual. If you adjust the switch to light the reverse lights when the shifter is in Reverse, the adjustment will be right for Neutral/Park. It matters if the car is a column shift or floor shift. In 70, the switch is inside the console. The mounting holes for the switch are slotted allowing for some adjustment.
Mine is column shifter. I moved the switch ever so slightly and it fired right up. The reverse lights are off though so I’ll readjust to the reverse lights working and see how that goes Thank you
