Engine assembly questions for noobies

I know there's a bunch of posts on here about engine assembly and common practices, lubes, specs etc and I've read I'd say if not all atleast most of them. I've already dropped the crank in and checked the tolerances, it's. 002. I'm getting ready to start degreeing the cam, yes I read JW cam degreeing thread. Now here's my questions/ thoughts please tell me if I'm on the right track here and add anything I'm missing, please bare with me as I'm a nooby to complete new engine building. Lube up the entire cam really good with supplied paste other than #1 lobes, insert cam. Install rear main seal TA1516 as per JW thread beside no trimming. Lube up seal and all bearings/journals really well, drop in crank. Lube up ARP main studs and follow torque sequence. Lube up #1piston rings (and cylinder wall??) with Marvel mystery oil (as per JW assembly) drop in piston and rod, check bearing tolerance, if good proceed to lube bearing and journal and torqueing rod bolts. Check to make sure crank turns freely with no binding and minimal resistance. Continue to degree cam as per JW cam degreeing thread.

 

Are you using plastigauge for clearance measuring.....or actually measuring the crank, the journal housing side and bearing thickness?

But yes order sounds good

 

Don't use cam break-in lube on the cam bearings or any bearings.Visually check the cam bearings for proper installation using light and your eyes. Check ring gap(s). Take your time. Check everything. Surgically clean. Don't forget rear cam plug before installation of the engine. Don't force anything. Camshaft should spin freely - no binding. Lifters should slide easily in the bores. It's been a long time since I did this job, but, I'm sure others will chime in with more stuff to do and check.

 

I used plastigauge Ben. All the mains are .002. My machinist was adamant to have no more the. 002 on the mains across the board before he would give me my block back. I will check for end play clearance once the crank is lubed and and torqued down again. I'll also check for rod side to side clearances as I go.

 

Matt, I'm not sure I understand you, I need to put the paste on the cam before installation or I'll burn it up on break in?? My TA dual groove Teflon coated bearings were installed correctly at 3/7 for the oil holes, proper set back on the front bearing and all the others centered in the cam bores front to back. I've done the final block and crank cleaning twice and I bag the engine when I'm not working on it. I reclean areas as I go too. I bought a ring filer so I'll be checking ring gaps and filing as needed. Slow and steady is my goal for this. I'm a noob to this so I'm going to make sure I ask all the little stupid questions as I've got alot of money tied up in this engine and don't want to screw it up by being to proud to not ask about the little silly things .

 

I assemble the entire short block before degreeing the cam. Crank first and then the pistons. Once thats fine I degree the cam..

 

Yes, it sound s like you are on the right track. I'm just saying that you don't want the cam lobe lube on the cam journals / bearings. There's other lube for that. The cam lobe lube is to allow the lobes and the lifters to marry successfully. I may be mistaken about this, but, I think that moly cam lobe lube is slightly abrasive.

I too assemble the short block entirely and then degree the cam, but, I see the benefits of only having 1 piston installed just to make it easier to spin the crank.
The first engine I assembled there wasn't all the good info available that is available today. I used a Chiltons manual, a library book and this Jim Ruggles guide that Buick Motor Division sent me.

 

Ok so the paste that came with the cam is for the lifter lobes only correct? I would use the red clevite assembly lube on the cam bearings and journals then?

 

I think so, yes. Double check with someone else to confirm.
I always smear a little of the cam lobe lube on the lifter, too. If you put it on an oily lifter face it will slide right off so smunch it around some so that you know its on there.

 

Depending on cam specs and whether you have notched pistons, I always check piston to valve clearance after cam has been dialed in.

 

After cam degreeing I was planning on smearing the lifter faces with the paste and coating the sides and top in oil.

 

Hey Gary I have Autotec Custom pistons with valve notches, set up for 0 deck. I'm running a TA 290 94H cam with edelbrock aluminum heads. If I'm not mistaken I would put bit of modeling clay on top of the piston valve notches, torque down the heads with gaskets and cycle the engine fully by hand then disassemble the heads and check the clay impression/thickness. By doing this will it wipe away all my assembly lube prematurely before break-in?

 

Cam break in lube goes on cam lobes only.....both lifter and fuel pump not bearing journals. I lube rear journal set it in the block hanging out the front, do all the journals.....then then the lobes......an extra long bolt. 3" in the front will allow you to install the cam.

Don't get lobe break in lube on the sides of lifters, it can cause them not to spin.

I like to put cam in with light lube on bearings,, degree the cam in, put all lifters inplace, mark the lifters with a marker.....just a line pointing towards middle.......rotate a few times to make sure they all move/ spin.......blow that apart then install breakin lube

 

Roger that Ben thanks! Theses are the little things I wasn't 100% sure of that I want to make sure I'm doing right the first time.

 

Understand. Now quick question, did your machinist have the bearings there with the block and rods????? If so and he set the clearance to whatever he thought they should be, there should be no reason to check with plastigauge. It runs the risk of not getting it cleaned of the journal or scratching the bearing tring to remove the flattened wax string.

You won't be able to adjust anything at home anyways.

If he wants you to do his job and check the clearance to be whatever spec....what are you to do if it isn't?

The way this should work is the shop sets the crank tunnel and rod big end to the specified size.....checked with a dial bore gauge. Then they measure the fnial inside size, then set clearance they want when they do the crank. Everything is measured and known b4 assembled.....not found during

 

Yes he said he was going to cut the crank and recondition the rods and for me to order 10/10 bearings so I did. I then dropped off the rod, main and cam bearings along with the pistons, rings, and my ARP rod bolts and main studs. Since they were not doing the assembly they put plastigauge strips in the box with the crank so that way whoever is doing the final assembly can double check that everything is within spec and to their liking. As for removing the plastigauge from the journals/bearings I've read on here multiple times that it is fine to leave it there as it melts away quickly upon start up or I can remove it with laquer thinner or something?

 

I wouldn't leave the plasti-gage stuff in there. You have to remove the caps to look at the plasti-gage, anyway, so take it out before replacing the caps.

 

Exactly........it does off, but sometime it doesn't just wipe away.....and then it still looks like its in the bearing surface.

Use a very good lint free rag too or you will just be adding dirt you can't see well inside a new motor

 

Agreed. I was going to remove it anyways iwas just stating that others have said that it could be left in there.

 

Ben what kind of cloth do you recommend using?