Engine and transmission separate or assembled into car?

What do you prefer on installing the engine back to the car?
I have the hood off the car, so I have plenty of room. It came out assembled, I installed it assembled 17 years ago, but perhaps installing the engine separate is easier? And then installing the transmission under the car?

 

Even with a lift I still do them together especially with a stk depth pan

 

What are your lift points?

 

Put it in all together, just make sure the car is high enough off the ground so the end of the transmission doesn't hit the ground when lowering the engine and trans. into the engine bay.!

Bob H.

 

Intake manifold hoisting plate.

 

Depends on the car and the project as to how I drop it in. Old car, nothing special and I dont care if stuff gets scuffed it goes in as a unit. My Riv where its all nicely painted and detailed, Trans is painted, separate. I have a lift and the jacks to do it either way.

 

Separate.
I put transmission in first. From bottom.
Then install engine.
Easy this way for me. I can do it myself sometimes.
This is for cars like ours.

 

Oh that's interesting, I figured the other way around. How do you support the transmission?
And how difficult is it to connect transmission to the engine under the car?

 

Same question here. I have to R&R a motor but don't need to take the tranny out if I don't have to. I can either use a lift or not.

 

I have never used a lift to install a engine in our type of cars. I’d hope you don’t need one.
Maybe for health reasons?
Enjoy the install and fully detail everything.
Clean your headers before firing up.
Enjoy that fresh engine smell.

 

My engine will be broken in on Jim's Dyno so, might not have too many new motor smells. But, with the car on the ground, how do we hold the front of the tranny up once the motor is out and before the new one is dropped in? Tranny jack?

 

I use a floor jack with a piece of wood block accross the pan. With the intake plate the chain wont hit the cowl so you just drop straight down line it up push it in. Then you can just lower it onto the frame pads. I just never felt good putting all that weight on 4 carb bolts. I use a chain on either side of middle of intake and then a wratcheting strap on the front someware.

 

Ah that's nice, lower the engine pretty far, connect to the transmission and thén lower it on the frame pads. Sounds controlled.

 

Yup... here in the shop, we install things in pieces, then hook them up in the car. Ray, your deal is as simple as it gets.. floor jack with a piece of wood on it to keep from scratching the pan... then with the old engine still installed, just touch the pan with the board and jack.. as you lift the engine with the engine crane, just follow the trans up with the jack.. Once the engine clears everything, and you give it a wiggle to separate the two, you have establish the height for the trans, to put the new one in.. Don't touch anything with the trans, just drop the new motor home, it should jump right on the trans..

Rule of thumb on the trans is install it on a jack, roll it underneath the car, and then position it correctly.. this will be done by mounting it on the trans mount... then hold the front up with your jack, all the way till it touches the trans tunnel. Lower the motor in and then line up the dowels with the trans holes, and follow the engine down with the trans.. I usually like to get a bolt started in the trans to keep it aligned during the process.

I do this by myself all the time..

And for Pete's sake.. If your using full length headers LAY THEM IN THE CHASSIS FIRST, BEFORE INSTALLING THE ENGINE. Anyone who has ever put headers on, knows that getting them in the car is at least half the battle... with the motor out, it's as easy as can be... hold them "kinda" in place, as far apart as possible, with bungee cords or straps.

JW

 

This thread is great. I'll be pulling the engine from the Riv next weekend and these are some great tips fellas! My trans will be staying in the car. I got a 2 ton engine crane, intake plate and an engine tilter so it should go pretty smooth. Just gotta get that 10 mile long Riv hood off and out of the way with some help of the wife

 

Thanks Jim,
Since you'll be shipping me my motor with the "stock" exhaust manifolds in place, I don't have to worry about headers. I hate them anyway.

So, radiator out but AC condenser in place? We'll strap both the A/C compressor and the power steering pump off to the side on top of padded wheel wells. Overflow tank and windshield washer tank removed until new motor is in.

 

That's really good advice about the long tube headers. I'll have to keep that in mind for when I'll be doing this stuff.

 

https://www.eastwood.com/merrick-ho...kedid=466879021188&wickedsource=google&wv=3.1 I got this tool.. works sooo good

 

That thing looks like it works pretty slick! I'm going to see if I can source one up here.