Eaton Posi

Ok, so I decided to make the transition from an open rearend to a posi. Thinking series 3 Eaton. I currently have a 12 bolt Chevy with 3.31 gears. Keeping the gear ratio.

Other than the carrier, what else do I need to order? Shims? Carrier bearings? New C-clips?

Thanks!

 

Id hate to go that far into a rear end and not replace bearings that's been there over 40+ years

 

It really is the best opportunity to rebuild the entire rear. Get a master bearing/install kit,and it will give you all of your bearings & seals,and installation shims. You will reuse your existing pinion shim,but you will need different carrier shims for your new Eaton carrier.

 

Thanks guys. Would you mind pointing me out to the exact parts you are referring to online?

 

Are you doing it with your dealer or by yourself?

 

Good question. I'm not sure yet. Would like to do it myself. I'm reading up on it and bought a video on it which is helpful. My big concern is having the car jacked up, wheels, axels and differential out and then getting stuck. Barring any major defects, I think can do it. Winter is coming too, so I'm not sure how much I want to do in the cold northern garage... Excuses, excuses......

 

Thanks Larry! I talked to monzaz at jdrace too and he can send me all the parts. One huge benefit to that is being able to call him if I have questions.

 

Unless you have access to a lift you are going to ultimately be happier with this job if you just pull the whole rear end out of the car. Use some wire to hold the drum brake backing plates so you don't have to fight with brake lines or e-brake cables and put the rear housing on some big jack stands. The case and ring gear will get heavy fast if you do this on your back under the car and the shims like to move around too. Additionally pulling and inserting the carrier once you get backlash and preload on the carrier bearings is no party laying on your back. Use a sanding drum with a drill or die grinder on the inside of the old inner pinion bearing so it will slide on and off the new pinion easily for setup purposes. Even if you have access to a bearing press you will probably find this a great time saver. Install the new inner pinion bearing once you have the pattern looking good. Unless your old bearing was really trashed the pattern will not change much due to the tight tolerances of most bearings. FYI Monzas rebuild kits use a master shim with an inner flange that will help keep the thin selective carrier shims from wandering around as much as the ones in the standard kits from Summit or Jegs. You might get Monzas opinion on lube and posi additive as well before you button things up. One other thing, summit racing has the best deal on the pinion yoke tool that I felt was easily worth the $30 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-18002). If you don't have a 3/4 drive ratchet get a 1/2 to 3/4 adaptor at harbor freight or somewhere cheap. The 1/2 drive hole in these tools are known to wallow out easy but the 3/4 held up fine for me. And one last thing, I can't imagine even dealing with a crush washer without a GOOD impact gun to drive the pinion nut down. Again you might chat with Monzas about this as well.

Good luck.

 

Patients

Just take your time... If you are in a rush to get this done you might as well not even start.

Assemble and disassemble could get tedious especially if your having issues finding the pattern.

I am always willing to help as long as you have the time.

Jim

J D

 

Can hardly wait, ordering the complete rebuild and new axles from Monzaz in a couple days! Whoopee!!!


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Matt buy what you need from Brian Trick

 

or Monzaz! they will take care of you! with the correct parts

 

AS long as you are keeping the 3.31 gears it really should not be a terrible headache as the hard part of any rear is the set-up of the ring and pinion pattern etc.
Get the pinion preload correct and then the backlash back to the factory setting you had in the open differential and it should be smooth sailing. Jim

 

Package arrived from Jim. Should have limited slip in 10 to 14 days. Thanks Jim!




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Finished! I found someone with experience and trailered the car there. It was worth it. I got to help. Well worth the time.







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Did you put the compound in it and run a pattern?

 

Well I can tell you this is NOT a correct way to press on a pinion bearing. YOU really need a sleeve the only pushes on the race of the bearing. The way this gentlemen has the bearing the cage will get damaged being pushed on by the flat plate. Crossing my fingers for you... IT will probably be ok once BUT if you keep pressing on and off this way it will make the cage buckle and all the barrel bearing will fall out.

The best way is to use a old inner pinion bearing remove the cage and old barrel bearings and just use the inner race as a push sleeve to install the bearing. YOU can do this for every axle bearing pinion bearing and carrier bearing. IF yu do not like when they stick from the press you can hone out the old push race a bit and then you will not have that issue.

Just a tip for everyone. Jim

J D

 

Just because someone has a shop doesn't mean they can do it right.