In light of my recent engine failure caused by a problem with the oil pump I'm considering going dry sump or with a scavenger system. Does anyone have any first hand experience with this on one of our engines?.
I don't want to start a major war here, but you have to figure out what made the pump break or not work properly. When I talked with Fred Catlin on this subject, he said, " Kenne-Bell tested both to death. Its not the pump, its the poor routing of oil passages. " TA performance made the new front cover to help solve the front cover oiling issue. Its up to us to figure out what to do to fix the rest. Dave M. Showed me a few options, JW,has a few options, but the block is our emeny you could say. Some are strong and some can't handle much at all. So, how can you define going to a dry sump? Trace your problem and photograph it and post it here. I'm sure someone can tell you what happened and what went wrong.
I am running a Peterson Oil pump on mine, it is great. And I have a Masterlube system on it too, then you can build pressure before turning the motor.
The complete pressure by pass assembly backed its self out of the pump housing during its last run. It was within a turn of coming completely out and she was turning over 6000 rpm. Talking to Mike at TA, He thinks that in its self would not cause a total lack of pressure but the pump sucking air through the loose fitting at the same time and aerating the oil would push her over the edge.
I dont think its needed at your power level. Or mine either. A good TA cover and pump set up by Mike at TA is all you need.
Negative waves on the motor man. Are you sayin your adjustable pressure regulator backed itself out? What cover did u have ? That would mean the valve at the end of the spring was spinning around turning the spring which backed out the adjustment center bolt which then backed out the outer large nut. What did your valve at the end of the spring look like ? One or 2 oval opening?was anything modified? I surly want to avoid this type of thing happening to my motor .
After frying the mains in my turbo 455, I went with the Peterson system from Steve. I fabbed up a custom sump with trap doors on a stock oil pan. I used coated bearings, also.
Maybe not needed but when did that stop anyone from over kill. If I can swing it for under a grand I'm doing it. 1+ is I'll never have to worry about OP and another is that I'll have no issues with the cam gear or any issues from the oil pump pushing on the cam.I'll be calling on Steve today for more info. Got a virgin uncut crank from David Butts this weekend. It will go to the machine shop today then order new bearings.
So how did your oil thing back out? That seems odd , or unfortunate . Over kill X 2 under kill .. Well , just ain't enough.
The main part of that bypass is threaded into the oil pump housing and most likely it was never tightened from the factory that built it. ON the Dyno the engine had great oil pressure so there was no reason to check the adjustment. If we had tried to back off the jamb nut to adjust the bypass regulator the complete assembly would have moved and we'd have know it was loose. I've read about several guys on this board that has had this happen on street cars while driving down the road. Spoke with Steve @ SRE and he gave me a price on a complete plug and play package for the Ext oiling system. Now I only need to sell a kidney or a bunch of parts to pay for it.
I m thinking you didn't break in the motor yourself or you would have raised your oil pressure during break in via the regulator, and lowered it down after breakin, it's also possible your 68 Sweet Riv got jealous and sabatoged the regal , you no took it out back behind the garage kind of thing while you were sleeping. Because these 68 Riviera GS cars got soul man. . At least mine tells me that.
{Quote}ON the Dyno the engine had great oil pressure so there was no reason to check the adjustment.{/Quote} It was fully " Broke in" on the dyno. After 5 WOT pulls everything is ready to go. With roller lifters theres no need for cam break in.
