yeah i figure i will just have to ebay this. its all new be good a for a sbc person. only hope is where they had it misrepresented as fitting. from now on i will double check my stuff from them. i have an 02 sensor is the same way wrong part.
Yes hopefully you will have luck.... they wouldn’t return my pistons even though 2 of them were totally different part numbers . 6 pistons at 10:1 and 2 at 8:1 lol!!
That's F'd up. I can't believe they won't at least fix it? Sorry to hear that, as I do business with them too...
i mean thats how it is with all these companies anymore. i still will do business there when they have the best price. ill just double check part numbers from now on. i have had it past the return policy but i mean thats different when you say it fits your car and it doesnt. just sucks.
Perfect example, of today’s issues. A few weeks ago the power steering pump went on my 2012 GMC truck, I had very little time away from work and busy with kids etc. So I paid a trusted shop to replace the pump, but it was faulty and whined super loud. The shop was able to get a new pump and switch it out but I can only imagine the hassle I would have had fighting to get a new pump and then doing the install twice if I had done it myself. Poor quality control, poor customer service etc. I typically use junkyard parts instead of reman parts like starters and alternators etc.
The premium gas in our area in NE Ohio is about 3.05$ -3.10 right now. If you go to BP the gas is usually 1 dollar more than regular. Most of the other stations charge about 60-65 cents more for premium than regular.
thats why i want to stay 87 this is a road car not a racer lol. just trying to make it better than it is.
I would go with the middle grade gas there will be a touch more octane then you may be able to go up on the timing a notch or two without much cost. This will give you a touch more power and cause you to push on the gas pedal less when traveling at 65 mph. I would probably stay with the TA212 or smaller or the Crower level 2 at most then. Any bigger than that and you will be pushing on the gas more at the lower rpm's, this will just waste gas no matter what is put in. Actually I would find a cam with a 114 lsa or a 116 and that will give you more power in the low end and still have some lope in the cam if looking for a little extra punch. Depends on how much duration is in it and lift Trying to run on 87 could be a challenge on the older motor. Total timing has to be backed off some and the vac advance on the distributor has to be tailored to not come on too fast to cause pinging. If you are even hearing pinging you are way too much in timing.
The other thing to consider is the 2.73 gear you plan on running. With this gear and the 700 tranny, you will only be turning about 1900 RPM in overdrive gear at 75 MPH. (I think you said you liked to drive it fast on the highway). With a cam that needs 2000+ RPM to start getting into its sweet spot, you will be lugging the motor on the highway which will negatively affect your fuel economy. You should consult with your cam supplier to make sure they know the gear ratio and tranny you pan on running.
I tend to agree on this information. My opinion is that given your gearing, trans, use of vehicle and octane preference there is nothing I would change from a stock low comp 350. Run 8:1 with a stock cam, enjoy great performance from idle to 4500 RPM. Keep the compression ratio as low as possible. Any other route will just lead you to trade offs. Raise compression and you risk detonation without enough octane. Plus compression alone isn’t worth that much. Larger cam, same deal very little gains without high octane fuel and high compression. As noted these engines can be tricky to tune to the ragged edge unlike the modern stuff with a million censors etc. Here is an example of even with modern tech there are still situations where high octane fuel is more efficient. My 2012 GMC 2500 is lifted, 35” mud tire, 6.0 LS with 9.6:1 compression. The truck is over 8500 pounds with tools and equipment. On a stock tune it was a dog, high octane fuel or low octane made no difference. I added a mild camshaft for a 50 hp gain without giving up any bottom end. I also added long tube headers, cat delete and dual 3”, once we got to re tuning the computer it was clear that stepping up the fuel octane gave better performance and fuel mileage. In fact the operation cost of regular octane vs premium is negligible. It gets 15% less fuel mileage on low octane fuel, due to retarded timing required to make it run well on the low octane gas. On the high octane tune it gives amazing power and less downshifting. Similar to your situation this truck runs 2000 RPM at 80 MPH and with the low octane fuel it risks detonation at such slow RPM under load.
im running 342s and a 700? i thought i mentioned that. it has a 273 and th350 right now but thats not staying. 342 gears stock tires 700r4 and s10 convertor to give it a higher stall speed. it pretty much runs the same rpm at speed with the od with this set up as it does now without. idk where that confusion came in. also the 700r4 is only a .71 od so its not as much od as say the 2004r or a few other trans out there. i may even step up to 373 rear it just depends on what is think is best. one will be at 2k at about 65 one at 69. i rarely drive slower than 65.
I think the gearing is ok I would leave it alone for now. You can always change it later. I’ve got a 75 Regal with a 2.56 gear, 2004R and it doesn’t hit overdrive till 70 mph . It’s great at any speed it just doesn’t need the overdrive till it’s going fast. I’ve had it up to 130 mph, it wasn’t even revving that much lol
ive got to go into the rear anyway its a peg leg and needs a bearing so its not a bigger deal really. i already have the trans as well and the th350 in it has a bolt in the flex plate that rattles so i gotta drop the trans to fix that so its not like im doing much more work anyway. as for the cam i will take it to shows so thats another reason just for sound alone. if i can pick up some pony thats just a trade off.
