That is a dice roll as well. Automotive type wax and grease removers are typically SOLVENT BASED so they may have the same effect. There are different "strengths" of these...some evaporate quicker than others and may be less aggressive. There are water-based automotive type cleaners/wax and grease removers...I use those along with solvent based products. Not sure what you may be able to find wherever you're located. One problem is many of these products only come in gallon sizes so you pay the price for that. My approach comes from how many times do you want to chance it and roll the dice? One other possibility could be to sand down the bad areas and clean them well....a water based wax and grease remover application. THEN....apply a couple lighter coats of your primer to those areas as well as lightly into the surrounding areas. Let the primer dry well b/n coats. Maybe a final medium wet coat of primer over the lighter coated primed areas. You can even lightly scuff the two lighter two primer applications before the final medium wet application if the lighter coats feel a bit rough. Then, let the final primer coat dry well and move on to your topcoats. I'm not talking about coarse grits of sanding/scuffing here. A light touch.....just enough to make your primed areas smoother if they feel like the primer went on "dry". RED/dark Scotchbrite pads are probably too rough/coarse. A grey or white Scotchbrite pad would probably be better if you're using those and don't use massive hand pressure. Not the optimal method but it might get you over the hump.
DX330 is a solvent-based cleaner so you're aware of the risks. I think it may be one of PPG's "lighter" solvent-based cleaners vs. some other ones they have....don't remember as it's been years since I've bought that cleaner. Basically, if you wipe any of the black painted surfaces with a cleaner and your towel comes up with dark/black in it....you know it's affecting the painted finish......and probably not in a good way. Then again, you may be able to let it dry/evaporate well and proceed with spraying on more paint. In that regard, some of the spray can products may be a bit forgiving.
Not necessarily....what I am saying in earlier replies here is you run the risk of the solvent-based cleaner affecting the surrounding enamel painted surfaces. It's not like you can wipe up EXACTLY to the edge of the sanded areas with any cleaners. Some of it is bound to contact the newly painted surfaces. That is the problem with using spray can or non-catalyzed paints. They are "weak" compared to catalyzed paints and one of their weaknesses is the lack of resistance to new solvent contact. Read my earlier reply on lightly priming the affected areas before a medium-wet coat of primer. At the end of the day you're rolling the dice with the obviously contaminated areas and using the spray can type paints just acts as a "multiplier" of the problems once they become evident (ie-they don't play well with solvent based cleaners, they don't blend well, they don't sand or feather out particularly well, etc). That's why I suggest starting over (on the lower dash) and being more thorough with the prep work and cleaning. It's all about reducing the risks in each step. There's a few chips that show up in the underlying paint anyway so you could deal with those as well. I don't know what final product is you're aiming for.......I'm assuming you want it as nice as possible for the products you're using. PREP is the key and the first run at prep didn't work well at all. Maybe you know the old saying..."When you find yourself in a hole, the first thing to do is stop digging".
As stated silicone is very unfriendly to paint. It can get every and any where. People use Armor All because it gives a nice gloss to the pad but it can cause fisheye years later. I like Semsol (SEM PAINTS 38374 SEM SOLVE). Expensive, but you don't use much. Try it on a small area first to see if it reacts with the paint. Also, I really don't care for any paint that says 2 in 1 or primer included...
I decided to use sprayway glass cleaner as its a water based solvent, worked out well. Sanded the problem areas to bare metal and scuffed till the surface is completely smooth. Wiped everything down again with the glass cleaner and a dry microfiber towel right before priming. Frequently changed nitrile gloves during these stages to make sure its all clean. After a few coats of primer on bare metal areas, I started with the satin rustoleum, beginning with a light tack coat. Did 2-3 light coats 10 mins apart. It’s been 12 hrs since the last coat and the paint still looks wet and glossy. I’m hoping the sheen will tone down once it fully cures. I’m not sure if the satin finish is supposed to be this glossy.
Came here to say that. All the years of silicone protectants make some repaints a real bigger. I always use degreaser (painter prep stuff) and tack cloth. You cannot over clean. Satin can "gloss" if it is sprayed heavy and wet.
Yup, I did use a tack cloth after the microfiber towel. I thought the same thing about the gloss after going more than 3 coats, no matter how light I went. That enamel paint is thick. I will see the final result after 48 hrs once it cures.
