Hi guys, I have been trying to figure this out for a while now. My hazard flasher is only working in the rear. Only the drivers side arrow is lighting up on the instrument panel. Front parking lights work otherwise. I have no power at the fuse block for heater/ac or radio/dir signal. I have power to all other fuse locations and pins for cruise control, etc. I haven't inspected the inside half of the fuse block yet. I have inspected the firewall side connectors and all looks good. I have also swapped flashers for and ignition switch for known good ones as well. What do you think I should check now? Thanks. The harness is a new one from M & H.
If you have taken the fuse block apart, or the firewall connector or the front/engine harnesses off the firewall connector, you may have failure to engage on the terminals in the connectors. Sometimes the small square pins push out of the connector/blocks, especially on the type in the mid 60's cars.
Thanks for your reply. That's what I was thinking and why I disconnected and cleaned off the excess black dielectric grease so I could see the status of the connectors. They looked and felt solid.
I had trouble with the harness connectors on the engine side, connecting and "locking" to the block that is "sandwiched" on both sides of the firewall. (that the fuse block assembly bolts to from the inside). I ended up using small zip ties the pull snug and secure them.
Yes. Hard to get pictures (and harder to get the danged zip ties on.) What I did was take two of the really small ties, the ones about 4" long and about 1/16" wide. (2 of them connected together, but a longer zip tie would have been better) The fuse block is a two piece, the "fuse" component is removed, and then the firewall portion is the block I pictured below (#1). It has the pins that are visible in the engine compartment, that the two harnesses connect to. I had to replace a couple of pins, as the lock tabs had broken off, and they would "push out" when the harness connectors were mated. Second was the harness connectors plastic had lost their ability to lock (tabs weak) and stay connected, causing intermittent electrical issues. Since I could not find replacements I figured zip ties would work. With the fuse box removed I routed the zip ties around from the inside to the outside of the fire wall and enclosed the rear part of the block (#1) and the two harness connectors in the engine compartment and then pulled them tight. I drilled small holes in the firewall part of the block. Pulling the brake booster if you have power brakes might make it easier. You can remove the four nuts holding the booster and disconnect the rod from the pedal and move the booster forward a bit, hold it out of the way with wire without breaking the lines loose. You will know how much you can move it with the flex in the lines to allow it, without damaging anything to eliminate the need to bleed and make a mess. Been driving (almost daily) for years and no problems. #1
Before you go to all that trouble, I would do continuity check on all the pass through connections. Put one end of the probe on the terminal at the "base" of the wire, on the engine side and the other probe on the same wire terminal on the inside of the car and check each wire that way. If you have the probe type that is a needle, made to pierce wire, that makes it easier, or fine the terminal end of each wire as it connects to the accessory. It will take some time to check it all, but if you find you do not have any issues with continuity, it might be better than taking the fuse block and firewall connecters apart and risk breaking anything. I wish I had all my wiring done at this stage, rather than later, making the whole "zip tie bit" easier, but I did not have the harnesses and electrical mods done until after the engine was in.
