Cutting the metal out of the interior - Any advise?

I am still gutting my 84 t-type and the stock rear "fire wall" behind the what was rear seat, didn't make the cut I will be putting aluminum in its place, but I don't know how thick it needs to be? The tech's at Martin hate me so I thought I would ask you guys before I start up the rivet gun ..

Also, Any of you know how much I can gut from the car before the body buckles behind the rear window? Assuming the roll cage takes up body flex... Some guys with turbos had compalined the car peels the paint and starts to crack in the rear 1/4 between the rear window and the rear passenger window... My plan was to use the saw to cut ALL the metal out around the inside interior panels, leaving the screw hole's in so I can run the stock interior.. The doors are next.. My goal is 2999 lbs with me in it. Assuming I'm down to race weight by spring (Enduro, Harescramble's etc)... So far, glass front, rear bumpers, VFN race hood, deck lid.. Doors if I can figure out how to roll down the windows..

 

I grabbed an old NHRA rulebook and it said .032" aluminum or .024" steel...

can't help you with the flex issue. Let me know how that turns out.

K

 

Door weight

The newest NHRA rule book also says .032 aluminum and .024 steel. If by chance you decide to keep the steel doors, you can cut (or drill out the rivets) and remove the side impact bars if you havem't already done so. I just did the ones on my 84 Regal (race only) and each bar weighed about 13-14 pounds each (using a bathroom scale). I also converted back to roll-up windows and got rid of the window motors and wiring. It wasn't a fun job (kinda like chewing gum in your hair) but like most jobs after it was all said and done wasn't that bad.

 

I like the Chewing gum line.. First real laugh I had all day!

We were going to do the doors next, thanks for the info. How much did your 84 weigh when you were done?

 

Thanks,, and I'll keep you posted..

 

weight unknown

I haven't been able to weigh my Regal as I'm still converting it over to 462 Buick power. It previously had a 433" Big Block iron headed Chevy and it weighed 3200lbs (without driver). The aluminum headed Buick motor I have should weigh about 250lbs less than the Chevy motor so I'm excited to lose that much weight off the front of the car. I will say that reading all these threads that talk about cam shaft lobe (wipeout) and cam bearing meltdown scares me to death about this motor. I have no experience with Buick motors but guess if it dies I'll just start over, it won't be the first time!

 

Try these guys for the bearing stuff. They have been through it all and will know where to steer you. Check out Bobb Makely's Thank you note he wrote on this site, his et say's it all.

http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=113575

http://www.finishlinemotorsports.com/index.htm

 

What else did you do to lighten up the car?

 

Normal weight reduction (well almost)

Fiberglass front bumper with aluminum braces, removal of a/c/heater box, aluminum radiator (with lightweight elect fan), vega manual steering box (weighs half of a S-10 box), one (1) racing bucket seat, removal of rear seat, removal of computer and associated wiring, removal of the impact frame behind the rear bumper (just left enough to mount the bumper to the braces), gas tank (fuel cell now) and last but not least, I scraped the undercoating off the underside of the car (this is not worth the effort and I probably only ending up with a pile that weighed 1-2 pounds and a big mess). Oh, I also removed the wiper motor and associated hardware. I'm sure I have forgot something but can't think of what at the moment. I still have a steel cowl hood, headliner, door panels, and everything inside the car is still carpeted including the aluminum panel that covers where the back seat used to be along with the package tray. I also have a six point roll bar made out of mild steel. I'm running a 8.5 GN rearend not a 12 bolt/ford 9".

 

Hood

Hey Monkeyy
You mentioned you had a steel cowl hood, Did you make it or is someone manufacturing them???

 

You got me

My mistake, steel flat hood with a fiberglass 2 1/2" fiberglass cowl insert moulded into it. The thing weighs a ton but looks factory. My friend had it made here in Bowling Green (at a body shop for $600.00) and for some reason he got tired of it and wanted a stock flat hood (even swap). I jumped right on it and made the swap. Best deal I've made in years. Sorry for the confusion!

 

Cool, sounds like my t-type should be as light as yours so I should meet my goal.

: S-10 box, manual brake booster, no ac, wiper motor, comp, original seat belts, parking brake, hood latch, rear seat,front seats (jegs plastic), rear deck lid components (glass lid now). The front & rear bumpers are glass along with alum brackets, VFN race weight glass hood. No inner fenders.. The cage will be good for 8.5 et with rear cross bar in trunk. 8.5 rear, alum heads, intake, 400 trans.. Next will be the doors and interior steel....

Thanks for the info :laugh:

 

Mine is 2975lbs.(car only) glass bumpers & hood, no inner fenders, core support, HVAC box, or wiper linkages, S10 manual steering. Doors are gutted (lexan windows except windshield) glass buckets seats, no rear seat(covered in aluminum & carpet) fire wall & floor has been replaced with aluminum, stock frames rails slide in the rear (ladder bar suspension) mild steel cage, Ford 9", turbo 400, iron headed 455. I don't know if you guys are building strip only cars or what, but maybe this gives you an idea. :TU:

 

Cool

Looks good to me!

 

Nice sticker in the back window :TU: I might sport one of those next year, maybe smaller thou.

I started to build my car for the street, but the scissors keep cutting the thing apart. so I guess I'm looking for a "street car" that is light as I can afford it. I wouldn't mind taking a closer look at yours this winter. Amy Makely's car has been a good model as well. I want to keep the stock dash, interior panels and stock floor. I guess everything else can go, any suggestions?

 

Running
My 83 Regal weights in at 3150 and bone stock looking as can be. Full interior, radio still works, 6 point cage, T-400, ford 9", but has an all iron brand x.

 

Small brand x or Big? The car looks good :TU:

 

THANKS!! same as the name.

 

Your welcome .. and Duh ou:

 

Damn somethin must be wrong wit my car its almost 3500 wit a BBB in and I been slowly taking weight out full interior radio in wit full 10pt cage