Combination valve

There's a method to the madness. Good thinking.

 

Nahh, that doesn't matter. Standard bleed will work just fine. Just depress the pin for the whole process. I used a C clamp.

 

OK, one more time. The combination valve consists of 3 parts.

1)The hold off section
2)The warning light section
3)The proportioning section.


The only part that gets centered, is the valve in the middle. The centering depends on equal pressure on both sides. If you pop a brake line, and lose hydraulic pressure on one side (front or rear brakes), the valve moves to one side or the other and grounds the switch terminal lighting the brake light. As soon as pressure is restored, the valve centers itself, and the light goes off. I can actually make that happen by applying my line lock. Pressure is held in the front brake lines, and I take my foot off the brake pedal releasing the pressure in the rear brake lines. My brake light comes on as long as I hold the button. As soon as I release the button, the brake light goes off.

You don't have to center anything. It centers itself. If it didn't, your brake light would be on.

 

Once you get pressure to the front brakes, the valve will take care of itself.

 

I used that threaded rod to adjust my pedal height. I always felt the stock pedal height was too low. I don't think it matters to the diaphragm.

 

No, my original booster rod had no threads at all, it was not adjustable. My replacement had threads, and I used them to adjust the pedal height higher. I like it like that, much better feel.

 

It's a good thing you can do that without crippling yourself. You'd never hear the end of it from you know who.