Just installed a Centerforce (Sumitt Racing) with original clutch fork and the bearing that came w/ clutch kit no probs.
What clutch / pp did you have in car prior, and where did your adjustment of the rod with bushing at fork end up with the Centerforce pp installed?
Ditto, but 5 years ago. I did measure my flywheel thickness and compensated for missing material by using a Lakewood adjustable pivot stud. Didn't take much adjustment to compensate, BTW. I also eighty-sixed the old adjusting rod and went with a female Heim joint and exhaust stud so I could absolutely control the length no matter the T/O Bearing height. Plus that Heim joint eliminates a crappy rubber bushing and maintains geometry without stressing stuff.
Would you happen to know the thickness of an uncut flywheel? Top pp is a Centerforce it measures 2 5/8 from table to top edge of finger. Bottom photo is a Hays pp it measures 2 1/2 to top edge of finger.
When I rebuilt my SBB and put in the Centerforce Dual Friction in I also had the rod all the way out as well and thought it was odd. Once she came to life and I moved her around in the shop I had to go back and adjust it again back in quite a bit. I would think you are better off with the dual friction setup versus the stock standard in my opinion. Man Dave always something, Let me know if I could be of more help.
I thought this was odd also, so I call trans guy and he said drive it a couple miles and it should be fine. Well I have put maybe 300 on it and nothing has changed. Frustrating!
Obviously I must have found that out before being so meticulous (it's now been five years). I dug around in my service manual this morning and found nothing. Is there no data stamped onto the flywheel (Min-max thickness)? Seems a likely source for this data. Just a bit more info from me on my Centerforce setup on my Super T10 with 26 spline input shaft: T/O Bearing P/N:N1716; Clutch P/NF148552. As I recall the T/O bearing did not match height of previous bearing - but my previous clutch was a Borg & Beck type (rather than diaphragm) so not a fair comparison anyway. Heim joint from Napa #732-1129 and called "rod end - spherical."
I have a spare big block flywheel downstairs. Its a 44 year old virgin. Came out of a 40k mile car and its just recently been cut for the first time by me. If anyones interested, I can measure it later for you guys
I've had similar issues. Ran into this with a Delco replacement clutch kit, complete Kleiner setup, and stock bellhousing. I used the spherical rod solution Brad mentioned above with the 3/8-16 X 3/8-24 exhaust manifold stud. I also used the McLeod 16505 adjustable TO bearing. It comes with collars to make up the difference in bearing height, while allowing for adjustability between the Z bar and fork. For some reason, GM used (3) different size TO bearings, and given small block adjustment rods, are so long, small block owners never have the issues big block guys have. I'm not entirely convinced after 40+ years they've resorted to just giving everyone the incorrect small TO bearings. One size fits all is cheaper, but might not be correct in our cases.
As far as my BB flywheel, it measures .687 from the ring gear to the face. I'd be curious to see what yours measures although Im sure that isn't the issue. I have 2 TO bearings "in stock". The tall style and the short style. I measured their depths just for posterity. This is a 10.5" pressure plate I have in stock as well. I assume these are the straight fingers? Look pretty straight to me:laugh:
Great info.:TU: Can you give measurement with pressure plate flat on table and measuring tape from table to top of fingers? Any idea what applications apply to each bearing?
