From their web site: "The factory control arm length should be duplicated if using an adjustable lower control arm. To accomplish this place your new control arm" From that I infer that the fixed arms match the factory arms too.
So... back to work. I'm waiting to hear from a local driveshaft shop, and moving on to the next issue I've found. No need to get out the dial indicator to know this isn't right... I've marked the nut and shaft with paint, though I'm thinking that's not going to come into play when I put it back together after changing the seal. I'm guessing the too long driveshaft pounded the outer pinion bearing. Anything I need to know before I remove the nut and the yoke?
Three things to know: 1. that bolt is TIGHT 2. The crush on the bolt reassembling is critical 3. You can either re assemble it with the old crush sleeve or install a new one at this time. Hopefully Brian Trick or Monzaz chimes in. edit I just watched the video and yes that seems like a lot of free play in the rear end, I would consider having it gone through, now is the time to do it. Axle seals, possi clutches, set the gears up properly, may as well do it right, right now.
If you had enough force to impact both transmission rear seal, and pinion seal, you need to investigate both transmission and differential for damage. You may be able to replace the crush sleeve after verifying the pattern to ensure nothing has been driven out of proper mesh, and also making sure no hard parts were damaged in the transmission (planets/ring/sun gears) and thrust bearings/washers, at least. Consider the cost of not doing in depth forensics, and "making do and seeing how it goes", and the cost of doing it over and spending again for wasted/damaged parts. (As I will often say, it is easy for me to spend your time and money, but I have spent more of both from my own pocket and watch, so maybe call it experience/advice that costs you nothing and worth every penny you paid for it) No matter what, I do wish/hope you find the path of least cost/resistance and resources in fixing your car.
Yes,if the shaft is too long,it can damage the pinion bearing and possibly the transmission. This is a perfect example of “just because it fits doesn’t mean it’s correct”. I see this a lot when people swap from a TH350 to a 2004R,and claim that it takes the same length shaft. No,it does not. Yes,you got it to fit,but it’s not correct,and something like this will be the result. To replace the outer pinion bearing,you will want to remove the axle shafts and carrier,then remove the pinion. You will not be able to do it correctly with the rearend assembled. A pinion seal,yes,but not the bearing and race. Everything needs to come apart.
The play on the 73 GS video. You can not just assume that is a lot of play. You have to measure the backlash. Sometimes what feels like alot is only .010... Please measure the backlash before doing anything. Oiled and dry will feel totally different. Jim
Gotcha - I just picked up a 3/8-inch DeWalt cordless impact gun that's supposed to have 450 lbs ft of removal torque - we'll see. Otherwise, I have a pair of 1/2-inch impact guns, so I am reasonably confident I'll get it off. I do need to pick up a low scale beam or dial type torque wrench for when the time comes. I am always good at spending others time and money as well - and understand where you're coming from. In this case, I need to take it one thing at a time while checking everything I can. That's why I asked - and appreciate the responses. Yep. While it's been in there a long while time wise, it doesn't have too many miles on the set up. Two very well respected shops had their hands on it - the trans shop my Dad used for the 700R4 and then a different shop installed the Eaton posi. Both should have said something about the driveshaft, but then again I wasn't there and it's about a year and half too late to ask Dad. The passenger side axle isn't coming out where the car is, so it may have to be done in steps once I figure out what needs to be done. I'll get back under the car Sunday. The diff is already drained so I'll pull the TA cover and take a good look, check the backlash, take some pics, etc. I have the factory shop manual sitting next to me, and I've been going through the specs and whatnot. Of all the things I've done, I've never had the need to get into setting up a rear - I would just swap 9" pumpkins in my Mustang. Thank again, and wishing all of us a truly Happy New Year and 2023!
And I'm back with a few photos and a few vids... I measured the backlash, and it wasn’t pretty. You can see the video below: 0.055” to 0.075” depending if I had it under tension or when it settled. I then removed the nut and the rear yoke with my new cordless 3/8” impact gun, so I didn’t have a good feel for how tight it was – it wasn’t loose, but the gun didn’t struggle either. You can see in the second video how much play there was in the front bearing. The bearing is beat, with sharp edges. You can see the stuck paper towel fibers after I ran it through the parts washer. So, since I can’t get the right rear axle out where the car sits, is it possible to R&R the outer pinion bearing race with the pinion shaft in the way?
That bearing actually looks pretty good. That edge you see has been there since the bearing was made. The critical surfaces are the rollers and the race. Unfortunately,you will need to remove the axle shaft to remove the carrier,then the pinion,to get the race out. If the backlash is really .055”-.075”,that is a little on the tight side,unless it’s a fresh install with new gears. I am assuming there is still oil on the teeth,which can affect your measurements.
How much room do you have to remove the axle? It only needs to come out far enough to clear the diff. It doesn't need to come out completely.
How do you have .055 to .075 ... Think you need to go back again and go slower with that dial indicator gage. Is the yoke on correctly and preloaded correctly? Remove the crush sleeve and reinstall the bearing yoke and nut...tighten the nut by hand till you get almost tight, no in out play, no up down play and hit it with WD40 .Recheck your backlash again. even your drive to coast forward to backward movement is way too wide of a difference too. show be like .055 to .057 back and forth or .075 to .077.... The distances are too far from each other in distance for you to be reading correctly with your eyes. Go slower and as many times as it takes. It should not change that much from drive to coast. .008 - .010 is what were looking for. WHICH I can see we are WAY far away from... but the reading back and forth no matter what the reading should be relativity close to each other...Reason I ask about a sloppy install of preload which can cause this messiness. NExt what are your left and right shim pack measurements? Example .240 driver and .248 pass side. How easy is it to remove your carrier assembly can you pull the posi ring assembly out by hand ? or do you have to pry the carrier out of the rear end saddle cavity? Jim JD Race
on your bottom video that movement is totally normal for not having a yoke installed to the preload of 15 -20 inch pounds. the first video happens so fast you can not see anything...
Jim, When I saw .055 and .075,I figured he meant .0055 and .0075,but yes,it shouldn’t vary that much,and would be too tight. I was curious if there is oil on the gears or something to not give an accurate and consistent reading.
It's been a while since I have messed with bearings, but the edges are awfully sharp. Not just the bottom of the cage, but between the rollers as well. Yep, I figured that, but then I can't get around the car at all. But if I do pull the axles, I'd like to replace the original bearings and seals. I measured and I have 30” of room if I do some rearranging along the wall. How long is the passenger side axle? Got ya, I think I’ll get back under there, remove the crush sleeve, put the bearing back in and slide the yoke on like you say… and then get the dial indicator on there again. As I mentioned, the yoke nut didn't feel all that tight, and I was able to get the yoke off without a puller. The gears were dry as I had sprayed them down with brake cleaner. I am confident I measured correctly. I’ll start over, go slower, and retrace my steps. Thank you – all of you!
What I would look into is those 4 wheeled car dolly that go under your wheels and you can pull the vehicle away from the wall and then push it back again. Or even build some rolling Jack stands with a 2x4 cradle to our under the axle and allow you to roll it. Use the non pivoting wheels if you only need to roll it side to side, otherwise the swivel wheels often make it harder to push as they get turned the wrong way.
Yes. Tapered bearings if the thrust load is excessive, will force the bearings against the cage (collar) and create great friction on the rollers and erode the hardened surface (making them shiny), and the effect is rapid wear and failure. (Aircraft wheel bearings was one of my areas of expertise back in the olden days, spinning up to 200 MPH with tremendous loading, and I inspected a bazillion of them) $40 is cheap insurance for a bearing/races/shim/sleeve kit.
The edges on those cages are normal from when they were stamped. I have a 50-year old bearing and a new one in a box. That part looks the same. What you want to look at is the surface or the rollers and the cup surface. Any scoring,flaking,chips,etc. That would show signs of a failing bearing. To get an accurate backlash reading,the pinion yoke needs to be installed and preload on the bearings,roughly 17 inch/lbs,and the carrier installed with proper shims to preload the bearings and the caps torqued to 65 ft/lbs. Now you can check backlash.
