cfm carb for Buick 350...places sell 600 and 650...is that enough?

Reading the timing with the vacuum advance hooked up will tell you if it is over advancing the dist.,you nedd to set the timing with it unhooked first.

 

You're right Larry,I was thinking sbc,where the total is set much higher in most cases.(been building to many of those lately,can't talk anyone in to running a Buick!! And its has taken most of my free time away from working on mine,it is cheaper to work on other people's engines though,and it helps pay for Buick parts for me)LOL

 

Fox's Den I thought he had a T/A intake if so it's machined for both spread bore and square bore Carbs I would absolutly rather swap it with another Rochester but if I could not get my hands on one and I had quick access to brand x I would try it The fuel line would need to adaped no big deal it could be brought back to OEM easy enough

 

OK I did this, 2 yellow springs, I now have 32 degrees at 2500. I had to retard the dist to get there. Initial timing with 2 yellow springs is 1.3 advanced. No vacuum.
Do I need to switch back to one blue spring, that would make it hit 32 degrees later than 2500 no?? And we want 2500?

Next step? Or its timing good? Th cranes adjustable vacuum I am not sure how to read what it is set at.

 

That's the interesting thing my idle speed screw is out all the way , my idle is coming only from mixture screws, is this ok?

Here is your pic.


I will take a look at this. Its been raining and I'd like it to quit before going on a test drive.

---------- Post added at 02:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:46 PM ----------

Right now I am thinking of using the propane to check for vacuum leaks, since 17 is somewhat low,But wondering if the fan will just blow it away?
I still havent heard if my low idle could be the reason for it being 3 " low?

 

Just a thought...

Did you put the headers on before or after the carb?

Did you tell the Cliff that built the carb (what is it about Cliffs and Q-jetsuzzledabout running headers?

I know that with a Holley, adding headers/free flowing exhaust can cause a lean condition on the primary side:Smarty:

The same should hold true for any carb.

With a Holley you just have to go up a couple of jet sizes/adjust the accelerator pump:TU:

With a Q-jet... I don't know, try sacrificing a goat to the Elder Gods or something, there's more voodoo and wishful thinking involved in Q-jet tuning than can ever be explained in one post :laugh:

As a free carb test, Id pull a plug and check the color...

White/light gray= lean

Black/dark grey= rich

Tan/light brown= just right

Oily= ou:

 

The intake headers and larger exhaust were all put on at the same time, before sending the carb to Cliff. Yep he knew my entire setup. The engine is unchanged since then too. (Except timing today) I wish I could find the sheet and spare parts that came back with the carb, it might say what jets/rods,stuff. I'll keep looking.

 

No it's not. Just for the hell of it with the engine off turn your mixture sceews in all the way till then stop turning (Dom't over tighten just lightly seat them) count how many turns in at takes to seat them. On a stock set up they only need to be out 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns. This is a good starting place there are a few ways to set them corectly but just try that but let us know where they are set now I'm not sure if you have hex or dd style screew heads you might have to tool they sell at most part stores.

 

Hmm I checked and they were 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns. They are a hex with a slot for a flat screwdriver.

 

Propane has been used it works good, But I'm going to be hoest with you get a can of carb cleaner just about every mechanic on the planet has used it to check for leaks. I don't want to force you into doing anything your not sure of or uncomftable with. Do't just take my word on it (Drive to your local dealership don't goto the service desk walk up to a tech and say look I have a vacuum leak and I've been told to spray some carb cleaner to check it I just want to know if this common thing to do then to a local garage same ? ) I sugest going in person rather than calling because I think you will get a more honest answer . Try not to spary it on the Dist or exhaust but it not going to hurt anything also your not empting the can just misting it and before you start spraying anything take your air cleaner off and mist a little right into the Carb if the idle increase you have a vacuum leak now you juast have to find it

 

Ok good. I was just thinking if had came back with hey there 3 turn out or something then that would indicate a bad leak and the mixture had to be fattend up to compesate. So we cross that theroy off the list but still wondering about the idle screew not needed to keep it idleing. (again another theroy are the butter flies sticking in the bore preventing the linkage from fully shutting) but anyway did your timing help any

 

Even better skip the whole going to the dealer ship thing. I'm glad Larry spoke that is just what we needed to hear now you need not worry you will be fine. (I think I hurt my hand beating that horse to death) Just kidding tring to keep it lite

 

As a former GM Tech and current Ford Tech, I will say the same thing.

We use carb/intake system cleaner for leak tests all the time.

Every time we work on an intake system we spray the area with cleaner to check for leaks before giving the car back to the customer.

Is it the best way? Maybe noto No:

When your fixing dozens of cars a week, fast and effective trumps best for simple tests:Smarty:

And I say again, pull a plug and see what color they are.

Its a fast and effective test to see if you have a lean bog or a rich bog:TU:

 

Ya know I got so side tracked I forgot you had posted about pulling some plugs I thought that would have been covered long ago like at page 1-3. Good call I too am interested in what they look like and the gap. I know it has a points to electronic conversion so he can run a bigger plug gap. I have seen GM cars with fouled plugs start up and seem to run ok, for some reason the factory HEI's have a enough juice to fire it up but under a load you would get a miss fire and a stumble. I don't know if his HEI can do it but who knows only thing is he does not got have a miss fire.

 

I think I have good news regarding vacuum!
Using propane I could not get the idle to come up.
I put the vacuum gage back on and turned the carb mixture screws in 1/4 turn or slightly more, the idle went up some and the vacuum is now 19!



The carb number I think I posted a while back, it is the one that was on this car, not one Cliff had.