I called the owner and gave him an update. Turns out he's got the same year Monaco (bizzare right?) That runs well. We're going to swap the new Yorker carb on the Monaco and see if the issue transfers
I was going to suggest NOT running the Monaco carb on the New Yorker w/o getting a good fuel sample from the New Yorker first,,, as you slip quietly and unknowingly further down the rabbit hole..
Or the fuel Jason ! Sucking on the carb could dislodge it . Its easier to do than disassemble the carb !
It would be WISEST to fix what he’s got in front of him (2 carbs and 1 vehicle) rather than to lick another door handle! Before you know it, he’ll have 2 old Dodge/Chrysler’s that don’t run right.
Usually if there is junk in the fuel, beside plugging the fuel filter, it will effect the needle and seat and cause flooding more-so than immediately plugging new carb passageways. But who knows? Anything is possible and it doesn’t take a lot of junk in the wrong place to anger a carburetor. Jason, did you drive the New Yorker after you installed the new carb, or did you just run it in your driveway?
Before I had my car's fuel tank coated inside my carb would get filled with a fine rust powder, so fine the fuel filter didn't catch it. The filter looked clean but the carb would fill with this powder in 15-30 minutes, depending on the speed. A clean tank and new sock filter on the pick up tube cured the problem.
I did an autopsy on the original carb. The bottom of the float bowl had a layer of sediment and you can see the damage from the ethanol fuel. The fuel bowl had a rusty "water line" in it. The old carb was definitely done. The tank was coated, a new sock and fuel filter was installed and I purged out the lines into a clean water bottle. Now it's a possibility that fine debris got past all that. I did the old, Rev it up and choke it out trick to no avail.
Yes it was. As far as the carb, he took it as it was. And I haven't seen the car since to see if the issue was resolved
Good luck with that one (snicker snicker). Even the dealers couldn't make those boat anchors run right. IIRC, the dealer had a "kit" you could buy that supposedly fixed all the running issues with those, came with a new box for the air cleaner, new distributor, and a bunch of other odds and ends, not sure if a carb was part of it. If it was me, I would be afraid to ask him for an update...
Yes, let sleeping dogs lie... I have another nightmare on my hands. A 2003 s-10 with an inop fuel gauge. Wanted me to put in a sender. Explained it could be the gauge. Gauge goes thru the pcm. Could be a ground issue....Did a gauge sweep test. Gauge swept. Gas gauge reading zero, sender reading zero. Car has a PO446 code too. Bad ground? Who the f knows...just change the sender....ok... Fuel tank strap rotted, it broke. Fuel sender ring was rotted to death. After beating the hell out of the ring, I finally got it to come off. Swapped the sender. New sender has that new GT-280 connector. I matched up the wiring combination in the instructions put it all together and now the gauge reads when the car is off and as soon as I put the key in, the gauge goes to zero. Purple wire has 5v. If I had to diagnose mid 2000 GM cars, I'd go insane.
Those old “lean-burns” were no fun. I think it was all about spark control. Most of the time all least the box was bad. We had an easy way to diagnose them after they were just about gone, but I can’t remember what that was. After you got the spark control correct, then it was on to basic carb problems, vacuum leaks, etc. Not an easy way to make a living.
And I reluctantly have to admit I'm getting old....Im really starting to feel it lately. After putting that tank in on my back, I was sore af the next day
