Cool - try adjusting the idle by first starting and warming the engine to normal operating temperature. Then lightly seat each idle mixture control screw and then back out 1 full turn (360 degrees). Now set the idle speed with the idle speed screw to the desired setting. Jon.
I don't know that I have gotten any car to idle at 450 RPM. Do you have air conditioning? If so, your idle needs to be up by 100 RPM.
Thank you for the hint Bama Wildcat, it is very helpful when other people report their experience. One feels better by considering some things that seemed as a problem before to be okay. No a/c on my car and I already said goodbye to the idea of getting her as low as 450. But I at least want to have her as smooth as possible on 500, 550, 600 or whatever and hate the stalling when making tight turns or shifting into D or R. carbking, Thanks for your valued hint, too !!! I started her again (which was not easy) after I wrote my last message and had the setting done on the idle control screws already as you suggested. She is really running so very rich (blueish air in the garage biting my eyes) and the higher temperature gets the rougher idle seems. As the idle control screws did not make a difference before, I figured that she is getting fuel from somewhere else. (float stuck or something)!? With coughing regards and red eyes Kindacool
Cool - blue smoke is from oil; smoke from fuel will be black. Has the oil consumption increased? Is it possible you have a broken oil ring; or is something in the aftermarket smog system allowing oil to enter the combustion area? Jon.
Hi carbking, no problems with oil consumption and the smog stuff is completely disabled at the moment. It was not as blue as burned oil. Just that the air in the garage seemed slightly blue to me, which might be due to the neon light I have in there. From the smell it was rich exhaust gas for sure... Ah, I see, for a diagnosis over a couple of thousands miles away, I have to be very careful describing things... Thanks so much that you undergo the troubles to try to help me "kraut". I started her up two hours ago to see if there was any difference and if tapping at the float bowl might change something. Everything is the same like yesterday and when I stopped her and had a look into the air horn, blew away the mixture-fog, I saw that the frontal part of the gasket between air-horn and main body was wet, thus, I figured that probably fuel was actually coming over from the float bowl (float had been soldered years ago, too). Just took some photos - the area is still glistening (see att.) P.S. Nozzle where the fuel line comes in is wet, too, I just realized... Best regards Kindacool
...and two more shots, right after engine died running warm (choke fully open) on initial setting as described in the manual. Cimg1772ar.jpg:Note streams of mixture shooting into air horn from over accelerator nozzles' level (is that the openings where air is drawn in normally to combine with the fuel from the low speed jets ?) Is this condition normal ? Flow keeps on coming for at least 30-60 seconds - restarting the engine is almost impossible. Cimg1765ar.jpg: Side of float chamber is wet. Surely not a normal condition...!? Best regards Kindacool
Even though you have experienced identical results with two carburetors, it may be time to rebuild one of them so that you have one that you know is good. While the carburetor is apart, test the float by submerging in hot water. The hot water will pressurize the air inside, and if any leaks are present, a stream of bubbles will emanate from the leak. Jon.
Hi carbking, this carb was rebuilt! As a matter of fact it had been sitting awhile and before I put it on shelf I had a "specialist" sealing the float. So when I rebuilt it a couple of weeks ago, the float was dry inside, but when I got it out on Saturday night it was full like Dean Martin at show time... (So much for the term "specialist" in this case). Say, are low speed metering jets available separately ? I replaced one that was damaged at its seat with one that was slightly oxidized and am now facing a dead spot in acceleration from idle. Thanks for letting me know. Otherwise, after blocking the smog nonsense and installing the better float, she idles way better (550rpm being the lowest possible so far), driving my wife nuts when she is behind the wheel, 'cause the lack of vibration makes her think she stalled... Learned what an oil pressure gauge is good for now :laugh: Best regards Kindacool
Glad your engine is running better. Exactly what I meant by a "known good" carburetor. Sometimes a "rebuilt" unit is no better than a used unit; always good to know what to expect. Idle tubes may be available, we would need the tag number of the carburetor to check; but shipping overseas is ridiculous! Find someone with a glass-beading machine, and glass-bead both of the idle tubes (be sure to blow them out with compressed air after cleaning). Far less expensive than overseas shipping. Jon.
Hi carbking, you are so right. And rebuilt units are only worth something, when you rebuilt them yourself ! Jon, what if the tag is missing on the carb and I do not have the number ? (It's a CARTER WGD, code number 2400S. Manual says "No.70" for Low Speed Jet Size, Drill Size) I had a complete grille shipped over last year - I do not think a couple of brass jets will kill me. What would they cost anyway ? Would glass beading clean them inside out ? Best regards Kindacool
