Can I see your electric fan set ups?

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by STREETFIGHTER50, Apr 27, 2023.

  1. STREETFIGHTER50

    STREETFIGHTER50 Well-Known Member

    I’ve been thinking of getting an electric fan kit to replace the current flex fan set up. Any recommendations that won’t be overly expensive? Please chime in.
     
  2. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    You cannot have sufficient cooling and low cost.

    Amps equals cooling.

    Anything else is "fooling"

    Burma Shave


    I use dual SPAL fan setups on both my '64 and '68 Skylarks

    You will need adequate amp alternator, heavier AWG wiring, larger Amp hour battery, and proper fusing/circuit protection.

    If yo try and go cheap to save money, you will find frustration and likely failures

    It will take me a bit to post components, methods and whatnot, but if you are committed, I'll post the information.
     
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  3. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Ron Francis has a nice simple wiring kit 50amp maybe even 60 can't remember

    Fans: 04-06 GTO
    00-02 fbody
    Lincoln mark8
    99-12 Vette
     
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  4. STREETFIGHTER50

    STREETFIGHTER50 Well-Known Member

    How much did you end up spending on all that?
     
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  5. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    The OEM’s went to electric cooling fans because of packaging considerations NOT cooling efficiency or h.p increases.
     
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  6. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    The SPAL fans I used on both cars part number. S2130 were $289. (I got smoking deals on the fans)
    The fans are attached to a shroud and cover almost 100% of the radiator.

    Mattson's Radiators
    https://the-fan-man.com/product/12-spal-puller-type-high-profile-dual-spal-electric-fan-s2130

    The pigtail was $25.

    Misc. electrical, relays, fuses wiring etc. about $50

    So, about $400 for each car.

    Since both cars were complete drivetrain swaps, I replaced both radiators (USARadiators Copper/Brass Optima) and since I added EFI to both cars, I upgraded alternators, so I am not including those costs.
    EFI controls one fan, and temp switch controls the second.

    I made my own brackets.

    Just factor in whatever you would need to replace if it applies.


    The '68 (BBB) will idle all day long at 165-170F (hot lapping, never shut down for more than 2 hours drag racing) never got over 180F.

    The '64 (nailhead) runs 160F (in the cold) and about 185F in hot stop and go Gulf Coast traffic for several hours at a time (Cruisin' the Coast and other runs)









     
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  7. Storm1

    Storm1 Silver Level contributor

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  8. STREETFIGHTER50

    STREETFIGHTER50 Well-Known Member

    Thanks for the pics & info! Nice builds you got!
     
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  9. STREETFIGHTER50

    STREETFIGHTER50 Well-Known Member

  10. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Do you want an electric fan set up because you have a cooling problem?
     
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  11. rkammer

    rkammer Gold Level Contributor

    There are many big block cars with HP up to 600 that still use a properly operating factory cooling system. (myself included) It just takes a clean block and heads, a good aluminum radiator with a fan shroud, a properly operating clutch fan, and the right water pump and thermostat. As Larry said, do you have a cooling problem?
     
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  12. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    Note also that there is a difference between the early cars (pre 68) and later cars due to the core/radiator size. My opinion is that the factory cooling, in most cases, is the better option as Ray pointed out above. Electric can be better for packaging, electric water pump, after shut down cooling, etc and has a host of mods necessary to make it work. Electric will not "cure" an over heating problem.
     
  13. STREETFIGHTER50

    STREETFIGHTER50 Well-Known Member

    No. I know I don’t need it. Just wanted to clean up the engine bay more & maybe add a little free HP. The shroud on is huge. But I probably wouldn’t even feel anything right
     
  14. black70buick

    black70buick Well-Known Member

    To be clear, Electric fans are more energy efficient free up more HP from the motor. Electric fans provide a touch better control despite adding load to the alternator. Some of this efficiency is likely due to blade design and overall packaging from a standard mechanical flex fan and/or clutch fan. I believe engine masters proved it.
     
  15. mbryson

    mbryson Owner of Ornery grandma Buick

    My car came with F*rd Edge (?) or Escape fans on it (they look more Windstar ish to me). They are twin fans and fit behind the big block radiator pretty well. The guy that built the car just wired some 16 guage wire with a 30 amp fuse to run the fans... A bit of "color" on all the connectors.
    20230430_104849.jpg
    20230430_104900.jpg

    I need to go buy a plug for the radiator outlet for the heater hose. The lovely wood plug that was installed by the previous owner has lived it's life

    I'm converting to a Volvo relay (hiddenish unless you know where to look) system similar to this.

    upload_2023-4-30_10-44-8.png

    That's from a Z28 from this thread on another forum.
    https://nastyz28.com/threads/budget-dual-fan-controller-setup-taurus-fan-setup.200028/page-37


    volvo_relay_diagram.PNG
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2023
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  16. BadBrad

    BadBrad Got 4-speed?

    I almost never turn this on (I'll speculate 2 percent of the drive time).


    upload_2023-4-30_15-32-47.png
     
  17. mbryson

    mbryson Owner of Ornery grandma Buick


    Do you have a "pusher" fan on the other side?
     
  18. Storm1

    Storm1 Silver Level contributor

    I don't recall what it was a few years ago but today its $539
    Radiator
    Fans
    shroud
    Thermostat relay kit
     
  19. BadBrad

    BadBrad Got 4-speed?

    No.
     
  20. BadBrad

    BadBrad Got 4-speed?

    I mean , yes.

    upload_2023-5-2_14-4-31.png
     

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