So this engine is finally together after all these years (bought the long-block in 2014). I turned the last bolt on it Monday morning and have spent the last several days just staring at it. I can't believe it is finally set. I've gone over in my mind dozens of times every fastener, hose, wire, clamp... torque spec. Trying to think of anything that I've overlooked or could have done better. I've read countless forum threads on this topic on this site and others and I'm at the point to where I think everything has been covered. I think what I'm looking for here is just any tips you all collectively may have that I can keep in mind as I do this cam break-in. This is the last major hurdle (that, and seating the rings) that I need to get over before I can call it done. I realize this is a very important step in the long term health of my engine. Along with soliciting your advice, I do have a couple questions that come to mind that I can't find the answers to. 1. Is the set screw on the quadrajet able to hold the throttle open enough for me to set it at 2k rpm? Or do I need to have a block or rope ready to to hold it back while I run around and look things over on the engine in those first few min? I feel like I could do this with the 350-2 that used to be here so this is probably yes. 2. Should I start the car under the hood by shorting the starter solenoid on the firewall or is that a bad practice? This is really just me doing this break-in.... my 12 year old son could help start it and read the gauges (all in the car) but I also figure I can just "jump start" it under the hood. Was wondering opinions on that one? 3. Do I need to have the valve covers off to verify the pushrods (and by default the lifters) are spinning? My rods are already all marked with a small white line on them but I feel like this may be overdoing it to start the engine with the covers off... it will get messy fast. I've marked 30 degrees on the balancer and plan to just set timing at that to start... once the break-in is finished I will work towards tuning it. So in my mind right now my startup will go like this: 1. Fill the fuel bowl through the vent and crank the engine over until it starts. 2. Get it up to 2k RPM immediately and then adjust timing to 30 degrees. 3. Check oil pressure and insure that it's high enough, preferably around 60psi on startup (oil pump is already primed). 4. Look every single thing over under the hood for anything out of place, keep an eye on oil pressure and engine temp. Also understanding there will be smoke from new paint. 5. Once the cooling system has all the air out of it, top off the radiator and close the system up. 6. Give the throttle some small blasts up to around 3k rpm every few min until my total 20 min is complete and break-in is done. How does that sound? What have I missed? What would you do different? I'm open to input. This is the third engine I've assembled in my 40 years but this is the first ever cam break-in. Thank you
I like to keep a garden hose around to spray on the radiator, but that's because I primarily used electric fans. At 2000 RPM you will be generating a lot of heat, so keep an eye on the engine temperature and use the use if the temperature starts creeping far enough above the Thermostat rating. If you have good mechanical clutch fan you'll probably be okay. -Bob C.
If it gets hot,..just shut it off and go again after it cools,...I use the Lucas cam break in additive also
I actually planned to have a hose on site but not to cool the radiator.... for fire protection lol. Ok so I'll add that to the list, I have two shop fans that I plan to position in front of the radiator and I an add a way to spray some water on the radiator to get some evaporative cooling benefits. Thanks
No need to fool with timing,....make sure it's on the compression stroke obviously,...then roll the balancer till your mark on the balancer or the 30° mark if it's etched,..line-up with the 0 on the tab,....THEN drop the distributor in and arrange the wires as necessary. Unplug the vac advance and will fire straight up and you won't have to dick with the timing Doesn't have to be 30 but at least 25°
You'll be fine, Ryan. Have your son do the cranking and call out the oil pressure and temp readings while you are maintaining 2000-2300 rpm from under the hood. You may find you will have to pump the throttle at first. These beasts need a good amount of fuel on a cold start.
I like to have a damp towel around in case timing is off enough to cause carb back fire. To snuff out any flames...
read/watch this.. https://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/engine-break-in-prep-and-video.214906/ I can't stress enough the importance of spinning the engine over with the timing light hooked up, and reading the timing, before you put gas in the carb. Two Reasons: It insures that the ignition system actually works. It allows you to see where the the timing is.. If the distributor has an advance curve in it, then the mark being anywhere on the timing tab will allow it to start. Next, with a Q-jet on it, read the part about Q-jets being lean at cam break in speed, in that thread.. It's very important that you don't run the thing dead lean during break in. Good luck JW
After cam break in, and your convinced all is ok, go for a spirited drive, DO NOT baby it, get on it hard where you can, better yet, get on the highway, take ‘er up to 80 mph, let off the gas and let ‘er coast back to 60 mph, floor it again, let off, do that a couple times where you can. Keep an eye on oil pressure and engine temp. Enjoy
Set screw? Do you mean idle speed screw? Or fast-idle speed screw? The idle speed screw may/may not get you 2K rpm The fast-idle speed screw would easily get you 2K rpm, but you'd have to lift the fast idle cam back into place every time you blip the throttle. NO. YES. Tell him to not touch the shift lever. He'll remember helping you with this project for the rest of his life. When it's me, I sacrifice a set of stock, stamped-steel valve covers from the Treasure Yard to use as a "special tool". Contains MOST of the mess, allows easy visualization of oil supply, pushrod spin (if you mark the pushrods where they can be seen from the cutouts.) This is my set for a Pontiac engine: Set your timing BEFORE you start the engine. This is called "Static Timing" an engine. Instructions already provided by "Hugger", above (and quoted, below.) Anywhere around 30 is fine; and I would connect the vacuum advance in addition. When actually running at fast idle with no load, 45-ish degrees advance would be no problem and somewhat of an advantage. Time the engine to perfection at the END of cam break-in. ^^^ Notes in-line. Expand to see them all. Some folks suggest multiple 10-minute runs rather than a single 20/30 minute "break-in". I have no real opinion one way or the other...but if things get warmer than you'd prefer, don't be afraid to knock the idle speed down and then immediately shut it off. This is the advantage of using the fast-idle cam instead of the curb-idle screw--it takes one or two second to reduce RPM and then turn the key. Or simply plan to have two or three 10-ish minute runs, and put the "real" valve covers on, and fill the radiator, etc. after the first ten minutes. If you used thick, Moly-based paste on the cam lobes, CHANGE THE OIL FILTER after 20 minutes. Moly-based paste can plug a filter in 20 minutes. "I" would not change oil--just the filter, and then add about one quart to make up for what's in the filter, and what escaped when you were watching the pushrods spin. Other folks will disagree, tell you you HAVE to change EVERY DROP of oil... I would leave the vac advance connected. The engine is operating with no load. That's the perfect time to add some vacuum advance. That's pretty-much why the vac advance exists--for lower-load operation. I'd have said to grab a fully-charged cell-phone, drive out of town on a low-traffic highway, go out about 20 miles while watching gauges and listening for any sign of trouble. Turn around, stop, disconnect the auto-trans kickdown (if practical.) Get into high gear (third?) and then stab the throttle as hard as you can without a downshift, and without detonation. Speeds vary with gear ratio and tire sizes, but 35-to-80 is not uncommon. You want high LOAD but NOT high RPM. Not more than 4000 rpm, 3500 maybe for the first few blasts. When you get to that RPM or max "safe" speed, take your foot completely off the gas pedal, let it coast back to 35-ish. REPEAT UNTIL IT STOPS BEING FUN. If you have problems on the heavy-throttle part of the ring-seating, you're already headed back to home. The rescue crew doesn't have to drive far to get you. Of course, watch for cops, watch for traffic, make sure your tires have air, and the brakes work. Look at the gauges. Give a hoot, don't pollute...etc...etc...etc.
Schurkey, I was referring to the idle speed screw that’s on the drivers side. Honestly I don’t recall even seeing a fast idle cam like I had on the 2 barrel… it must be on the passenger side, I’ll look into that. I set timing on this engine months ago. I realize now it may have not been the best method that a couple have listed above. Timing mark was at zero, #1 was at TDC on the compression stroke, distributor pointing to where the number 1 plug was connected. Since I set that timing (with the engine on the stand) I’ve rotated the engine slightly to get all the torque converter bolts in when I installed the engine. It should all still be in that same timing because everything was together when it moved and would have remained in timing. I think I may be past the point of redoing the timing now because I don’t want to move the cam any more than necessary. If you guys are telling me I have to start at 30 degrees then I might as well set it to 30 and then pull the intake and relube every cam lobe and lifter face. I don’t think that’s the case though, the 30 degree method is just a better method but not the only way. The cam lube was thick, I’d say it was more like grease than oil consistency. Thanks for the input, still mulling over this. Was gonna start it this morning but I’m gonna wait and check on a few more things. My son is definitely willing to help so I think he will enjoy that part.
Moving the cam won't hurt it I promise,...cams are tougher than people give them cred,...it's a mild cam with mild spring psi,....crank it you're gonna be fine
The most important thing is that the engine starts immediately. If you are confident of that, then hook up your timing light before you start the engine, and leave the distributor hold down loose enough so that you can turn the distributor. Make a 30* mark on your balancer or use the dial back feature to get the timing where you need it. Have a helper get the engine RPM up right away, and you can quickly adjust the timing.
