Building a race car..

Discussion in 'Race car chassis tech' started by jlnel, Dec 30, 2006.

  1. jlnel

    jlnel 85 regal 455/400

    May have some time on my hands and have a couple friend that are good at welding and fabbing stuff up. I see these full chassis kits and wondering how hard they are. car would be a mid 80s regal. do you build the frame and put on body then install cage, or put body on less floor, solid mount body to frame?? are there any plans that can go by or a regal specific chassis, anyone done one that has some photos that could help me along, not in a hurry or looking for a big dollar 8 second car, just thought it would be a fun side project, thanks for any tips, john.
     
  2. street rep

    street rep Well-Known Member

    I'm watching and hoping this one gets carried away.lets see if the racers secrets come out
     
  3. 57roadmaster

    57roadmaster Member

    I'm a new guy here so let me jump in. I build drag car and street cars in my fab shop. I am not a well know professional and no-one has offered me tons of $$ to come work for them.I am working on a balk-half 442 right now. it will be street driven with some Friday night track action.
    I do not beleive in dual purpose cars, just think they cost more and don't do either one right. You seem to want a complete chassis car.The stock chassis with perhaps tubs for bigger rubber will probably perform as well as a complete chassis car with the exception of weight reduction.We start by raising the car and getting a tape measure and a friend an take down twice as many stats as you will need. Mark wheel center lines front and back . track widths front and back,ect
    If you are to replace the whole frame you can drop it out. All chassis kits I know of are still universal ,I don't use them because the price is high and you are buying precut steel instead of 20 ft. lenghts.
    I start with the rear axle, put it where you want it under the car,Stock location ?,You remembered to mark the wheel centerline didn't you. or if you wnt sneak it forward a few inchs for that altered look. Next put on the ladder bars,4 link or whatever you will use to locate the raer end . Ladder bars should be the lower bar parrallel to the ground at ride height. You did record the ride height measurments didn't you??
    In stall a cross memeber at the front of the ladder bar remembering to have a loop in the center for your driveshaft. You can then go forward or back ,your choice,rearward needs to go over the rear end with clearance a crossmember to hold upper suspension and /or shocks.run the frame rails rearward and weld them to the rear of the body.Battery box ,fuel cell , ect and thats done for now. Then run the frame towards the front,test fit the front suspension for steering geometry,height,width ,and header clearance ect.
    Before you gut the body ,floorboards dash ect,make sure you weld tube or angle iron all directions as you will find it almost impossable to get the doors to close right and the quarters from buckling when the support is gone.
    I would be more than happy to guide you on a project but you need to be REALISTIC about the $$ ,time,tools and sweat a venture like this needs. Also what is it worth when you get done.
    In almost all cases ,you can buy a car cheaper than you can build one. You may break even with you doing all the labor but a complete chassis car will take most part timers 2 years to finish,if at all.
    Start with a small project first and work up.
     
  4. coxracn

    coxracn coxracn

    Hey John my 70 is at the chassis shop for a 25.5 spec right now it is to 8.50 but the 25.5 spec is for a 3500lb car .They are not cutting my floor out. some chassis shops cut the foor out because its easy on them. but i refuse them to do that Ill post pic. as it progress.Justin:beer
     

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