Brake problem

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by Lee Bacon, Dec 24, 2015.

  1. GSX 554

    GSX 554 Gold Level Contributor

    It will never get hard when you bench bleed it as it has no Restriction . You Won't get a hard pedal until you install it and hook up the lines. Then as you are stepping on the pedal you are forcing the Calipers and wheel cylinders out and they can only go so far . That is the restriction and you will have a hard pedal and it should be appx. 1/2 way to the floor.

    If you did a full stroke and see no bubbles it is bench bleed right. After you install it leave the 2 lines loose and let them drip a bit , then tighten them.
     
  2. GS464

    GS464 Hopelessly Addicted

    If you converted from 4-wheel drums to disc/drums, you absolutely have to replace the distribution block with a proportioning valve. The distribution block is basically nothing more than a metal block with three to five holes in it. It sends brake fluid pressure in more or less equal amounts to the front and the rear of the brake system.

    A proportioning valve will provide differing pressures to the front and the rear brake systems as disc brakes require far different pressures to operate properly than do drums.

    If you haven't installed a proper proportioning valve, you will never get proper braking on the car. Factory replacement or one from the conversion kit manufacturer, either way, one is required.
     
  3. Lee Bacon

    Lee Bacon Well-Known Member

    Will do
     
  4. Lee Bacon

    Lee Bacon Well-Known Member

    No just making 4-wheel drum to power.
     
  5. Lee Bacon

    Lee Bacon Well-Known Member

    Put a different m cyl and it's worse :eek2::eek2::eek2:
     
  6. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    That rod has an adjustment on it. Are you absolutely sure the rod is hitting the plunger on the master as soon as you hit the pedal?
     
  7. GSX 554

    GSX 554 Gold Level Contributor

    And it is in the correct hole in the pedal itself ?? Ragtops mentioned this in one of the first postings.
     
  8. Lee Bacon

    Lee Bacon Well-Known Member

    Go to you tube master cyl spongy brake pedal part 1&2 and watch those 2 videos. Quite interesting as I did what he shows in both and you would not believe how many tiny bubbles I got out out the back cyl and when I tapped it with a rubber mallet a bunch more came out of the back. It would only perc in the front and now it perc's front and back and I did this on the bench or I'd have to lift the car bout 20 feet in air :grin: oh btw I'm doing this on the original new m cyl that came in the kit. The other 2 I got at the auto parts would never perk in the back and like I said it got worse. At least with the new m cyl I had some brakes, now I'll put it back on and bleed them again :Dou: and see what happens. BTW yes I have the pedal adjusted right as it moves about a1/4" and than engauges the booster thanks for mentioning that tho as I double ck'd that too.
     
  9. GSX 554

    GSX 554 Gold Level Contributor

    Lee . I just did a 74 Nova from Manual Drums to Power Drums. I had to adjust the rod that went to the Brake pedal a few times to get it right. You just loosen the nut and turn the clevis in or out. Mine had to have the rod longer.

    Plus I can't remember but manual brakes uses the other hole in the pedal than the Power brakes.

    I also let my Master Cylinder sit in the bench vice overnight and go back and retry it many times during the day.
     
  10. Lee Bacon

    Lee Bacon Well-Known Member

    OK here's what's up: I did what he said on you tube and just put m cyl back on, after I let it seep a little than titened the lines, got in and pushed in the pedal and believe it or not I've got full pedal pumped it a few times to see if I have bubbles and no I don't so I decided for now not to bleed again till I get it off jack stands start it and take it out to see what happens. STAY TUNED wife said hot breakfast is ready so gotta eat first :Brow:!!
     
  11. Lee Bacon

    Lee Bacon Well-Known Member

    It's much better but now that there's power it will pull to the left which never did before so I'll adjust them up front as I did the brakes there already. But it's still not to my liking so I'll do back brakes and will change brake cylinders while I'm at it or at least rebuild them. Before when I pushed on them it went way down w/or w/out power as I started it so at least it doesn't do that anymore. It's heading in the right direction anyway. Thanks for all the comments and tips :TU: to you guys!
     
  12. Lee Bacon

    Lee Bacon Well-Known Member

    Ive done that on the bench several days now too. I did have to move the rod down on pedal too and even had to redrill a new hole. I will look at clevis adjustment again. Just adjusted fr rh and got it to stop pulling to left. will work on back next. what power set up did you get?
     
  13. GSX 554

    GSX 554 Gold Level Contributor

    I just bought a rebuilt booster and a New Master Cylinder from NAPA. Booster had to come from California .
     
  14. Lee Bacon

    Lee Bacon Well-Known Member

    Someone told me I have to reset the distribution block, how? Can it be bad??
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2015
  15. GSX 554

    GSX 554 Gold Level Contributor

    The only reason you would need to reset it is if you still have the light coming or staying on.
     
  16. Lee Bacon

    Lee Bacon Well-Known Member

    Lou I couldn't find a reset unless I'm missing something. And btw in line tube has the correct dist block.
     
  17. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Lee,
    The brake light warning switch works on hydraulic pressure. If there is a mismatch between front and rear pressures, it turns the light on. once pressures are restored, it resets itself with a brake application.
     
  18. gstewart

    gstewart Well-Known Member

    It should reset but occasionally they will seize.
     
  19. ed2557

    ed2557 Silver Level contributor

    After 2nd m/c, and you still have low pedal, you must bleed the brakes again. Start with the driver front then right front then driver rear and last right rear. bleed each cylinder until no bubbles come, and then do it some more, don't be afraid to waste brake fluid. then go to the next cylinder. you have to go from closet cylinder to the farthest from the m/c. you are going to use alot of brake fluid. If you were getting some pressure, that means the m/c is trying to work. Bleed Bleed Bleed. I've been a mechanic for over 50 years.
     
  20. Lee Bacon

    Lee Bacon Well-Known Member

    I know your right, sooooooooo what I'm going to do is first get 3 new rubber lines and new cylinders and than bleed again. But the last time I did it no bubbles came out. Oh yea a new valve too...........and how you said to bleed is what the factory manual says even tho the instructions from repro company's say farthest first.
     

Share This Page