Question for the body folks here, I just brought the GS home after three years in outside storage and basically exposure to the Wisconsin winters after I lost my shop when management changed. I had already started taking her down to bare metal when we had to move operations and did'nt do any type of priming and now all the bare metal has taken on a (Surface) rust that i'm looking for advice on how to remove and proceed going forward?, my ultimate goal is to remove the body from the frame and have the frame safty checked and powder coated if it's good? and strip and re-do the body and the re-assemble ..my first frame off. (Sorry for the pic orientation ,I could'nt figure out how to change it) ull]554243[/ATTACH]
thank you!!! I couldn't figure out how to do that to save my life!!you must be a Wizard or something?!
Start with mechanical removal, maybe with a 3m 'Clean n Strip' disk or an Eastwood "Contour SCT'. Be careful to not overheat the metal which can warp it. Harbor Freight now has a version of the SCT as well. After you get the worst of it off, there will likely still be rust in the pits. Acid treatment may be able to take care of that.
I was walking through my garage after coming home from work and happened to see a palm sander sitting there and decided to give some of the surface rust a shot and surprisingly it came of pretty easily ,what I did notice in the video with the SCT is that the guy sprayed it with can primer to keep it from rusting again during the rain? I was thinking would'nt it be kind of redundant to prime the car before you're done with the sanding and body work?
You can strip down to bare metal one small section at a time and then shoot with epoxy primer and move on to the next. You don't want to use any rattle can primer, as those will all rust through with moisture. Like Adam said, you can do your body work over the epoxy once you get it all coated. And make sure you read the tech sheet for any paint you're gonna mix yourself as many of those epoxies need to set for a certain period of time after mixing before you shoot them.
Nice! I thought the metal would be more pitted and rust too thick after 3 winters. An air powered DA sander with 80 grit will be more aggressive than the palm sander, maybe give one a try. But bare metal does use up sandpaper fast. There are metal conditioners that will protect bare metal. One of my favorites is Picklex but it's gotten crazy expensive these past years, it's near $200 a gallon now but it goes a long way. Check out the forums on Autobodystore.com for fantastic autobody/paint info. Here's the Picklex page: http://autobodystore.com/picklex20.shtml
If it has been paint stripped and bare metal with rust you can use naval jelly with coarse steel wool. Then you can use a phosphoric acid spray with steel wool and rinse when done. If working in spare time do as others said and work a panel/spot at a time so you can prime it when finished.
All good info and exactly what I need! I'm going to look into all of it , gonna be a interesting weekend!
Yeah to all the above. Its going to depend on the severity of the rust/pits. Use the LEAST aggressive method to get to smooth bare metal. Meaning no tiny rust spots/pits. You may use different methods in different places! Make sure you prep adequately before priming.
