From the ACD site... Starting Line RPM Controller NOW WITH THE EXCLUSIVE ACD QUICK ADJUST The exclusive ACD ultra fine quick adjust system allows throttle stroke adjustment of 040" per turn without disconnecting the air or electric lines. Throw away that engine destroying 2-step! The ACD Starting Line RPM Controller holds part throttle (externaly adjustable) to set leave RPM's. Your foot will be on the floor. When you release the transbrake, line lock, foot brake, etc., the controller will go to full throttle. You get the consistent launch of leaving on a carb pump shot plus the ability to adjust the speed of throttle opening for better traction on slick tracks. Works with any ignition, even magnetos. Compatible with any type delay box. Can be set to leave as low as idle or as high an RPM as you desire. Can be used with K & R Auto Start System. Jim, It's good to hear that MSD does good product R&D, and everyone on this board knows I am a huge MSD fan. But with a 6AL, with the chip set at 3000 rpm, the two step was very rough, and popped real bad. We set that low an rpm, because we always found that on marginal tracks, it helped the consistancy. Concerns about 2 steps are no new thing... as you can see from ACD's advertising.. and I first read about this in an article from one of the big Chevy builders, about 10 years ago, when the 2 steps were still pretty new to the market. And if a big time Chevy building is worried about it, considering their huge blocks/rods/ billet cranks and such, we need to be paying attention, that's for sure. In my case, the switch to the ACD controller was most satisfying, and well worth the money. JW
Jim W. Yeah, the 6 al is the unit that does not 2 step well, it will pop like crazy at low rpm. The 7 al -2 is excellent as well as the digital units. With those , there is no popping. Years ago , two steps did not work well, as with everything , the technology has gotten better. Jim Burek
Hey Jim, looking at your picture, it appears you used to have a one piece fiberglass front end. Is this so? If so, who made it for you and how did it mount? Do you have any more detailed pic's of it? I've always wanted to make one of those and now that I'm getting back into the drags, who knows...... Craig
Yes, that car did have a one piece front end.. made by VFN IT was mounted with a catch hook mechanism in the front, to an aluminum frame we built inside the clip. In the above pic, if you look below and in front of the radiator, you will see the frame side bracket hook. Then it was fastened at the bottom of the clip, behind the front wheel, with one dzus fastener, and in the above pic, you can see the car side bracket on what was left of the cowl panel. On that car, I removed the factory firewall, and fabricated a new one, aproximatly 4 inches rearward, and then set the engine back 3 inches. IT had two dzus fasteners thru and aluminum structure built under the tops of the fenders to beef it up, and strengthen that area which the hood dzused to. We attached the mounting frame strucuture to the inside of the clip, via 6x6 plates, which we fiberglassed to the inside of the clip. With just four dzus fasteners holding it on, it was a snap to remove, on guy could do it in about 30 seconds. The clip was very sturdy and light weight, after we completed it No need to fabricate anything, they are readily available. That one also had a real grill and headlight bezels, cut into the fiberglass. You had to look pretty hard, and see the lack of parting lines at the front fenders/radiator panel, and notice the integrated front bumper, to tell it was not steel. Here is another pic. JW
Jim W. adopt me please! :laugh: I don't think anyone can get enough of your goodies.. When I got my box, I looked around and saw the trend of poping and crap with msd boxes. Crane caught my attention with the digital box and side by side comparison with the 6al. I kinda found it a no-brainer.. The limiter on the HI-6 works great I think considering what it has to do.. :Brow: One cool thing is if you leave the car for awhile, set the limiter to 600rpm and lock the hood down.. :grin: About how long does the install take on the ACD setup?
Oh, I thought it was a GS! That's why I was taken back when you said "they're readily available"! But that does give me a good idea of how they're mounted. I went to the GS Nationals once way back in '89 and saw a guy with a gold GS that had a 1-piece on it, thought maybe that was yours. Craig
WS racing does have them for a GS now, according to their website. doors too... http://www.wsracingfiberglass.com/products.htm :eek2: Once you have had a race car with a removable front clip, it's really hard to go back to working over fenders again.. I have not seen or used any WS products, and have heard mixed reviews... before I would plunk down a bunch of cash, I would want to look at one in person. Scott, I can't recall exactly how long it took to install the unit, since it was my own car and I was not keeping track.. we already had a solid rod linkage, so it was pretty easy.. they also have this setup for a cable linkage. JW
I doubt the two step is your problem. There`s to many people out there using it and have no problems, especially the chevy guys. If you have a weak foundation (block) your going to end up with broken blocks, cranks, rods,ETC. Even with a girdle, if its not installed properly the block will still move around. I`ve been there and done that for too many years and replacing blocks for five seasons in a row. My BBO is the reason why I`m running a SBO now. The 455 olds is a weak block because the main webbing is very thin. I have a pile of cracked blocks and cranks which all of them broke because of the block flexing too much. And never once did I have a two step on my race car. A billit crank in your block will take most of the flex out because its a stronger main line running through the block. A light weight reciprocating assembly will also increase block life. Like I said before, I would look else where for the problem. I hope this sheds some light.
