Great work Bob, you must be really happy to have that thing finally sitting in your engine bay. That should be plenty of power to have some good time.
Ok Buick nuts we have some more good progress to report. The engine is finally all buttoned up and I took it for a shake down run yesterday. I got to say this thing is a BEAST!! The amount of torque is insane, I can stomp on it from a roll and it breaks loose no problem. The sound is just as I wanted, I was a bit skeptical of what it would sound like with the TA 290 94H cam but I love it. I have a few minor issues to tweak but that's just from the car sitting for almost a year and not engine related. Here's just a little clip, more to follow when the querks are work out.
Well I haven't updated this thread in awhile but I'm happy to report I have about 600 miles on the engine so far and have had zero issues. Oil pressure hot at idle is 25psi and cruise is about 52psi and that's with the TA pressure regulator set to the recommended starting point so I can get more if needed but I feel that's plenty. It's runs rock solid at 180-185 with my 180 T-stat so no cooling issues at all. I set the fuel pressure to 7.5psi and it runs the best there. I did put new Autometer oil, volt, temp and fuel psi gauges in too. I still need to check my vacuum but it's running everything (brakes included) just fine. I was thinking of putting a AF gauge and sensor on it in the future to keep an eye on my mixtures, thoughts on that anyone?? I do want to report that the adjustable guide plate mod for the Eddy heads that JW does really isn't that hard to do and man it really does keep the valvetrain noise down, I can barely hear the ticking/ clicking and I think I can adjust #6 a bit more to lessen it ebmven more. I do have some more things planned related to the engine and I'll post them up here as I get going on them.
I’m not sure which brand is best but yes get an air fuel meter. Setup a bung in the bottom/side of each header collector and then you can switch it from side to side. Remove it when not needed the 02 sensors foul up over time.
Thanks Sean, I'll do some research on what guys are using and try to put something together. I already have the bungs so that's a start
This is the one JW recommended to me. Still use it. https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-...ocphy=9004468&hvtargid=pla-377903111462&psc=1
Awesome thanks Larry! Quick question, do you leave all the wiring and gauge hooked up in the car then disconnect the sensor under the car, pull it out and plug the bungs when not in use or do you just temporarily wire it all up, use it then pull it all out again?
I leave mine wired in full time I just remove it from the bung and zip tie it out of the way when not in use. Modern cars normally foul the o2 sensors after about 30,000-50,000 miles however carbed cars normally foul them much quicker.
Awesome guys thanks! That's the way I was thinking of doing it too, just leave it all wired up and hidden. Now another question I have is when I'm adjusting the AF mixture I can only do one side at a time unless I had two sensors and two gauges so is it common for one side to be different than the other? Say different rods, jets on each side or do you get it to read close to eachother on both sides using a paired set of jets and rods?
Honestly I would simply do all your tuning with the sensor in one side and then after verify the other side is happy as well. Also use a vacuum gauge mounted beside your air fuel meter and tach. Then rig up a camera and film your driving so you can replay the runs to see how the air fuel ratio, tach, and vacuum gauge act. In an ideal world you would pull the plugs to find your leanest cylinder and then monitor that back with the AF gauge. I’m actually adding a throttle position sensor as well, and I videotape each drive with the camera pointed at all the gauges, boost gauge as well in my case as well as 4 exhaust temp probes. I just run an old $100 Sony camera mounted to the roll bar. It’s like a datalog without the computer.
