Johnson brand lifters with there EDM oil hole added. Call them on this. Your rod and main bearings should be fine, just drain your current oil out and then without the motor running just add three QTs of ATF and then drain every last drop of that out to flush out whatever crap from the failed parts that may be in the bottom of the pan. Also since it seems that it was likely valve float that took out that lifter I would check your valve spring seat pressure. If you have duel valve springs then on that cylinder look close for a busted spring also.
I tried the biggest VooDoo cam from Lunati when they were 1st introduced. Same deal, lobe wiped at abt 4k miles. They had aggressive ramp profiles. They warrantee'd one and sent a replacement that was parkerized. I never put it in & sold it but it probably would have been better for breakin. Oh, and one replacement cam Lunati sent me was bent by .007 couldn't even slide it thru the cam bearings. I went TA roller since and won't go to flat tappet as long as rollers are available.
So I got the engine out and torn down today, glad I pulled it, lots of metal in the pan. I’m a mechanic but not an engine builder, can I get your guys expert analysis of my cam bearings? Are the wiped out? 536A4827-01BD-4155-934C-7464ACA63C04 by 70skylark350 posted May 21, 2022 at 2:07 PM F6F22733-9DE6-41F6-BEA7-083D07772BBF by 70skylark350 posted May 21, 2022 at 2:07 PM
Can you drag a fingernail from front to back and have it catch, or is it still smooth? I have seen bearings take on similar look just putting in bearings and "fitting" the cam. The material is very soft and the surface can show that appearance and be fine. Did you pull any main caps and look at the bearings? What was the metal in the pan like? Size, material appearance. Did the oil look like metalized paint (Pearly)? (If it were me, I would be doing a full tear down, proper cleaning, inspect all bearing surfaces and putting in new bearings. $200 bucks for bearings, rings plastigauge and my labor is pretty reasonable.) I would also be tearing down, cleaning and inspecting lifters. Would be a shame to put it all together and have another failure. But, I tend to go overboard on such things and factor the cost of operation for the life of the car/drivetrain. In the end, it is very few dollars added. It is just all up front and seems like a lot. And check the timing chain for wear (rollers/pins). (and if I find more damage on the bottom end, I would be pulling the oil pump apart)
I did Look at the mains yes, they looked ok. The cam bearings are still smooth, they just have that appearance of wear. The oil was metallic, no large debris or particles. I ordered all new lifters with the new cam. I only see that one damaged cam lobe and lifter, everything else looked ok.
Then you should be OK. If the cam bearings had deep scoring, then it would be a concern. Sounds like "slow wear" of the lobe and fine particulates, the oil filter did it's job.
I’d leave ‘em in there and reuse ‘em Like Trunkmonkey said they smear VERY easy, as long as it’s not grooved or gouged your good. Hell you can put a smear in them with your fingernail, that’s how soft they are
Good news, thanks guys. Hey one final question, after I do the cam break in should I change the oil and filter right away, or leave that break in oil in there for a few miles?
^^^ Yep. And carefully cut open the filter and inspect the media for metal. I use the cheap leather gloves and dykes to cut the folded edge on the filter mating side, then use needle nose plyers to "wind" around the top strip of metal (like opening a sardine can). Gloves are a must, and a bench vise is a big help. But oiled ragged edged steel makes for a super slicer.
And this may sound obvious, but don't use a hacksaw on the filter unless you're actually hoping to find metal debris inside! Devon
