Beam torque wrench question for pinion preload

So I am prepping to put in new gears and have a 1/4 drive inch/lb beam torque wrench but cannot seam to find a 1 1/4 inch socket that is 1/4 drive to slip over the pinion nut to test it. I don't see adapters nor can I find a 1/2 drive beam style inch/lb torque wrench.\

Any suggestions?

 

I use adapters I found at Sears craftsman.

1/4 to 3/8, and 3/8 to 1/2

 

Thanks Ken. So you just used two adapter to go up to 1/2 inch. Didn't think of that. Thank you

 

Harbor Freight socket adapter set: Pittsburgh® Item #: 62851

I doubt you would fine a socket that big for a 1/4" drive. I doubt you would fine a 1/2" drive torque wrench that would do inch/lbs. Probably need to get a 1/2" socket and use the adapter. All is available at Lowe's.

Lou

 

Thanks guys! I’ll head there now.

 

Poor mans way to get pinion preload vs the $250 (give or take) dial. I’d invest in it if I was going to do it multiple times.

 

When I was going to school 30 years ago the instructor said that a beam style torque wrench was the most accurate but the least repeatable. Clickers are supposed to be the most repeatable but least accurate, however they are the easiest to use. Dials fall in the middle for both catagories. Like a lot of things if its an idiot using the tool you get what you deserve... I like dial type torque wrenches but they tend to be really pricey. I bought my 1/4 in beam for setting pinion bearings about 20 years ago and had to order it through MSC Industrial to avoid the tool truck premium. Now I see several on Amazon for about $25.

 

I have an old dial inch pound with a 1/2 drive I use only for this. Nothing else in the world. It's so nice to not only see max break away torquestions but easy to read the dual as your rotating the pinion

 

I also have A old 3/8 inch pound beam and use A adapter to fit my 1 1/4 ×1/2 socket. I use it to set the preload on pinion bearings and works great.

 

so I am installing Yukon gears and r says to measure pinion preload then put carrier in etc. so I measure pinion preload again with carrier isnstalled ? There are no specs for what it should be with carrier and carrier shims installed.

Trying to make sure I get it right.

 

Measure pinion preload with out the carrier installed.

 

thanks Joe. I need to order a repair manual pronto...Does anyone have the torque specs on the axles nuts that bolt to the rear? They were a pain to get off because they were so rusted on. I can't seem to locate the torque specs on those 4 little nuts that sit behind the hub.

 

Check out my JH Williams..

 

Those are a fine thread 3/8 bolt. I'd go 40 lbs-ft..

 

Williams was founded in the 1880s. They had a plant in Buffalo and made all sorts of hand tools. Snap on bought them sometime in the 1980s I think. From what I've heard they are one of the first companies to mass produce hand tools. Snap on may have sourced tools from them, so i think it's more proper to say snap on was rebranded JH Williams.. maybe one of the seniors on the board can offer some insight.

 

I do a set assemblt first, no seals, no crush sleeve or spacers, this way you get get deprh, pattern etc all figured out and correct. The set your pinion up, measure it's preload to you specs. And you need to measure the torque needed to keep it turning, not breakaway to just start it turning

 

For the top pinion bearing do you guys just install the pinion into the housing and then put the seal, yoke, washer, nut and use the nut/yoke to drive that top smaller bearing on? Or do you heat the top one up a little to slide it down farther then use the yoke and pinion nut to drive it down all the way?

 

When it comes tI'm for final assembly I do it the way you first mentioned, you shouldn't have to prepare heat anything to get it together.