So I'm trying to relocate my battery to the trunk. I've bought a switch and a box. NHRA says the box has to be attached to the frame. I have a stock tank with a sump. My roll bar runs down parallel with the frame so I can't attach it there. It will not fit between the quarter panel and the roll bar and it will not fit under the highest point of the roll bar and the trunk pan. I need ideas as to what I can do. The spot where the spare tire was has two raised dimples so the box will not sit flat there anyway. Besides, that is where I mounted my fuel pump. Thanks, David
No ideas on location. But just a small note,,,Optima batterys do not corrode at the terminals like the regular ones are prone to do sometimes, and they don't corrode the battery tray/trunk floor.
David, I had a similar problem but ended up mounting mine on the two dimples where the flat tire was and relocated by fuel pump. Jim
Go to your local hardware store and get a 12 inch or so long metal bar. Sit the box close to the roll bar and bolt it to a thick flat bar through the trunk floor that is long enough to reach the frame and also bolt to the frame. Although not normally checked techinally "bolted" to the frame if contested by an inspector.
you could put the battery where it fits, then take some square tubing, and "extend" the frame underneath.
Can you post pictures of your trunk? Sounds crowded in there. We had room on the right side on both our Skylarks. Fuel cell in the center on one of them.
I will try and post a picture. There is not much back there, it's just not a place to directly attach to the frame. The problem I see with adding any material under the trunk pan is the stock fuel tank. There is just no room above it since it touches the two reinforcements that run front to back that run parallel with the straps below it. David
David, NHRA rules say attached to frame? I don't remember reading that, and I tried to follow the NHRA rulebook exactly for both cars. The red car has a stock tank, and a Taylor battery box that is secured and the cut off switch arm coming out above the license plate. Black car has a base secured with a top plate secured to bottom with j hooks. I'll have to look today and see if they are secured to the frame at any place. Would pictures of those be helpful?
I tack welded a piece of 1x1 tubing to the trunk floor perpendicular to the frame rail. The battery box rests on the tubing in the front and the trunk floor in the rear. The battery bolt in the front goes through the battery box, tubing, floor and frame. In the rear it goes through the battery box, floor and frame. Yes the NHRA rule book says it has to bolt to the frame.
Your cage bar must really come back far into the rear of the trunk if it leaves no room for the battery. You can build a small frame for the battery box out of say 3/4" angle iron and just attach one side to the frame. Need to see a pic to really tell whats going on there.
It might not. I've never been teched on it. The other things not mentioned yet are that the trunk needs to be sealed off at the seat back and package tray with metal or an approved, sealed battery box, vented to the outside is required. Any time the battery is moved to the trunk a disconnect is required and that disconnect has to shut the car off. Most people miss that and don't realize that the unless the alternator is wired back to the switch the car will continue to run when the switch is thrown. On my last car I was too lazy to run the alternator wires and sure enough I go through tech, get asked to start the car and the guy flips the switch. Busted!
If that is the case you will have to build a "frame" that you will bolt to the frame on top of the floor pan. Take a 1/2 inch or so tube and bend in in half having a 10-inch loop attaching each half to the frame through the floor pan to the frame then bolt the box to the loop.
I bought a 13 lb Dyna Batt and mounted it in the stock location sort of.. 1.5 years ago I saved a bunch of weight and hassle. It works perfectly, and starts my car ( with authority) at 26* fixed timing without issue. Ive had zero problems with this setup and probably saved 200 dollars and 50 lbs over what it would take to be NHRA compliant in the trunk.. You can mount it almost any frigging where. Even under the seat.. Downside is that it doesnt have much reserve.. Leave the lights on for long, you're f'd. All the rules about putting the battery in the trunk are crazy..
OK, hope these pictures help. I placed a yard stick along side for reference. I do have a small Braille battery but as was stated, the small batteries have no reserve. I need all I can get for Drag Week. As for the rear compartment being sealed rule, I have a Taylor sealed and vented box so that is not an issue. I also have a Flaming River FR1013 switch that kills power to the battery and the ignition, no run on. I still don't see enough room under the trunk pan and above the tank to do much. However, the ideas about adding a small amount of material to the inside top edge of the frame may work as weel as doing some framing inside the trunk itself. I'm trying to avoid as much altering of the car as I can. Take a look at the pictures and tell me what you think now that we have visual.
On my old race car I had tabs welded to the roll bar which my tech guy said was part of the frame. A metal battery box was then fabricated to bolt to those tabs. I do not have any pics sorry.
