basic buick 350 upgrades

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by groundhound, Feb 21, 2010.

  1. 455Nick

    455Nick Well-Known Member

    For you Pertronix guys out there I have been thinking about buying one of these. I just bought a new solenoid for my starter to cure starting problems. I was thinking about getting the ignitor II, Flame thrower II, and plugs and wires. Do you guys notice easier starting, and better economy?
     
  2. Markogo

    Markogo Member

    Lots of good stuff here I have a 350 qjet 4bbl 2-1/2 stainless exhaust with x member and magnaflows, pertronix, I also went with a 200r4 trans overdrive itll burn tires or criuse fine on the hway.
     
  3. I asked a lot of the same questions you are asking when I had my engine built. If your ultimate goal is 400hp, than buy parts accordingly. I've made the mistake of building up engines for only a little bump in power, just to be overall disappointed with how much time and money I just spent. So, first I wanted to ask what "car" your 350 is in and what your budget is? I just finished building my 350 and it's approximately 380-390 hp. So I can give you some pricing insight if you would like.
     
  4. Markogo

    Markogo Member

    Good topic I'll be want to rebuild my 350 soon I have a skylark 4spd trans and about 3k. Id like to rebuild for more hp.
     
  5. wovenweb

    wovenweb Platinum Level Contributor

    I and I’m sure others would love to hear more about your build!
     
    Darron72Skylark likes this.
  6. I will put a bunch of my build info together and then I will post on here as soon as possible.
     
  7. rygelca

    rygelca '72 GS 350/auto

    I second that and would love to hear more about your build!
    ^^^Was from a while back, but how did the prototype shortys turn out? What about the Franken-Chevy ones?
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2018
    Carlisle72 and Darron72Skylark like this.
  8. MrSony

    MrSony Well-Known Member

    If you want the simplicity of an HEI, and don't mind running 4 or 5 feet of wire, TA has a very nice HEI for $115 with adjustable vacuum advance. The specs are on their site. Yeah, normal hotrod stuff will work. Headers, imo, aren't worth the ~30 hp for over 500 dollars. Plus they all are long tubes so they tend to hang a bit low.
     
  9. Here is some info from my 350 build for those who are interested:

    Car is a 1970 Skylark with original 350 SO code. block (2 Bbl)
    Engine was fully rebuilt and balanced, blocked bored .030 over, set up for 10:1 comp ratio
    Short block is pretty much a stock rebuild other than the higher compression pistons which are still cast. I know the rods are a weak point for higher power/ rpms, but at the time of my build there were limited options for rods that were affordable. If I had a do-over I definitely would have invested in the Molnar forged rods or even the later style cap screw design rod. However, I did use ARP hardware on all essential components, which I feel will add some insurance to my increased power.
    -Hydraulic roller cam, custom grind, .350" lobe, w/ 1.6 TA roller rockers, works out to a .560" lift. Duration at .050 is 230 intake and 230 exhaust. LSA is 113. The lobe seperation angle is a little wide, but I do have power brakes and plan on eventually running the factory A/C, so I needed better idle quality. Also I did NOT need to notch the pistons for this cam.
    - Hydraulic Roller lifters, dual valve springs, dual groove cam bearings, double roller timing set
    -Cylinder heads were rebuilt and fitted with larger 1.92 Int. and 1.5 Exh. valves. Heads were resurfaced and some very mild porting and bowl work.
    -TA front timing cover with oil pump mods (booster plate kit and adj pressure regulator)
    -TA performance water pump
    -Intake is a TA SP3 with a 750cfm Quickfuel street Q carb with mechanical secondaries, no choke
    -Pertronix Ignitor III billet distributor with flame thrower III coil, taylor 8.2 wires, NGK plugs
    -1 and 5/8" headers from TA, had cermaic coated at a local business

    The engine is mated to a TKO600 5 speed and 12 bolt 3.73 posi rear

    The most affordable parts of my build were the intake ($389) and ignition($295)

    I by no means took the cheapest route out there since most of my engine build was done by a local performance shop, however, not having the time or machining tools available, this was my best option.
    The performance shop build cost was around $2,800. This price includes an assembled long block with intake installed.
    Cost for all performance parts (engine only) was approx $4,500
    So you do some quick math and your looking at just north of $7,000 for an est 380-390hp buick 350.
    Just wanted to share this to show the potential costs of a build when having it done professionally.
    If you have the tools and skills to rebuild your 350 at home, you can save about $3,000.

    As most of you are aware, performance goodies for this engine are quite expensive compared to your fords and chevys, but good power can be had with just a few of these bolt ons. The intake/carb upgrade is a must, whether it be the single plane from TA or the SP3. I'm sure there's even some Poston intakes out there. If you want performance, don't waste your time with the cast 4bbl, unless you can get it for $20. Just my opinion. Also, Ignition upgrades are extremely affordable and a variety of different manufacturers have ignition parts for this engine. Also for me, the headers made a huge difference. If you engine is being built for anything over 300hp you'd be loosing a minumum of 20 hp with factory manifolds. Can be expensive, especially ceramic coated, but absolutely worth it in performance and looks. Also to add, unless your car is slammed to the ground or for some reason your jumping it, you are not going to have have ground clearance issues with TA headers. My car is lowered 1.5" in the front and still has plenty of ground clearance under the header tubes. Just avoid pot holes, lol.

    If there are any specific questions about my build, or any other parts on the car, I am more than willing to share. Hope some of this info helps in planning your builds. Thanks for reading
     
    71buickskylark likes this.
  10. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    What I would do:
    Factory size dual exhaust off the manifolds.
    Quadrajet carb on either iron intake or TA's Stage 1 aluminum intake.
    Electronic ignition, more consistent than points, points start wearing out as soon as they are put to use.
    60 psi oil pump spring.
    MOST IMPORTANT.. A good (Autometer) oil pressure gauge!
     
  11. 36racin

    36racin Platinum Level Contributor

    I'd be interested in a set of headers as well.
     
  12. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    I haven’t had a chance to finish up those headers. I need to practice my welding.
     
  13. wovenweb

    wovenweb Platinum Level Contributor

    Did you spec the cam yourself?
     
  14. No, Mike from TA did, after I spoke with him about what I was looking for in performance and drivability. Schneider Racing cams machined the cam
     
  15. JStov

    JStov Well-Known Member

    Hey felllas I know that this is a old post, I myself have a vibe stock 350 with 2 barrel carb and looking for some pointers to beef it up a lil, I have found a Buick 4 bbl intake that I’ll have shipped soon, just don’t know about the carb I’ve called around to local yards and able to find a few quads that need rebuilding, my questions are are 4 barrel carbs the same other manufacturers? What should I be looking for in a replacement quad carb?
    2. They hei what kind should I invest in that I can install my? I’ve installed duals had them custom places a few weeks ago with flow master 40 supers sounds good and feels better
    3. If there is anything else I can do to open her up a bit plz advise thanks
     
  16. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    Spend the money on a Quadrajet, rebuild by Quadrajet Power or Everyday Performance. Most people here that have had them build a carb have seen performance gains. Universal carbs are just that, and will need jetting and other fuel curve changes to get the most from them. Everyday performance does distributer recurve with points conversion also to stock distributer.
    Big valves blended in will gain power. Stock intake works fine. Just heavy. 2 barrel engines have about 8.2 actual compression 68-75. Lower in76-80 to around 7.7.
    Change front cam bearing to the TA performance backgrooved front cam bearing.
    The crower level 3 cam advanced 4 degrees has been proven to perform well with lower compression and big valves. Even with stock exhaust manifolds. Shaving the heads to bump compression up some can work out . Get a 2500 small block rated torque converter and a 3 series rear gear. If done well you could be into the low 14s with 250 plus hp. Although a piston change for compression increase would be best . But if your engine is solid you can just do this mild stuff.
     
    JStov likes this.
  17. Storm1

    Storm1 Silver Level contributor

    Why not TA for all the cam bearings?
     
  18. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    The front cam bearing is the first place oil pressure goes to from the oil pump. So it’s the most important. You can change all but front controls oil pressure to left bank of lifters.
     
    BeatersRus likes this.
  19. JStov

    JStov Well-Known Member

    Should I rebuild the 2 barrel or change the intake and go to a 4 barrel
     
  20. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    I would suggest 4 barrel. Since you said your waiting on one to be shipped. Once you have it contact Quadrajet Power. They may have a core also. You may need a 4 barrel accelorater cable also.
     
    JStov likes this.

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