Bad timing, but I need to remove the cast lugs on my heads

So Jim has finished up my TSP470 and is boxing it up for shipping. For some insane reason, I am making one last attempt at fitting shorty headers in a 67 A-body. The big ugly lug in the back of the head, under the brake master is for sure in the way.

So after I get my shiny new assembled motor, what is going to be the best way of cutting that bugger off?

Sawzall with a fine tooth blade?

Grinder?

I don't want to put too much heat into just that corner, so I'm assuming the sawzall unless you tell me otherwise.

 

cause I'm an idiot.

 

Grinder would be my choice

 

It's somewhere in the way. I was just gonna start sawing. Yeah, it might be the block now that I think about it.

Still in the dang way.

 

4" electric grinder with a cut off wheel will have them off in short order.

However, i'm sorry to say I think you've made a mistake by not cutting them off before the block was final cleaned. You're going to send metal dust everywhere. It's a bit risky at this point.

 

I cut mine off after the engine was together, not the best timing but it went fine - die grinder with 4' wheel was the best approach. I masked and sealed off the rest of the motor while I did each side, and it still made a hell of a mess. A half hour with the airgun, followed by a dry rag seemed to remove all the iron dust. It was no picnic but I'm glad I did it.

 

You should be able to tape off the ports, use a shop vacuum and a sawzall

 

Like Ben said run your shop vac beside the grinder as you're cutting, it will catch/suck the majority of the grinder dust.

 

What motor mount brackets are you using?
Stock GS4oo work fine with NO headers..
PAE = same as above..
TAP = has a extra set of bolt holes in them to send the motor forward 1 inch... Now what headers are you using?

I would ask Tim @ TAP. For the right Mounts and right headers...

http://taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_2012CH

 

Those lugs are in the way for alot of things........just like the lugs on the transmission

 

I am using the TAP mounts and shorty headers which very specifically state they DO NOT FIT 64 to 67 A-body. I knew this going in. It is close It looks like passenger side will have 1/8" clearance but I can't get the drivers side in since my test block has that knob.

I do have an engine bag and was intending on sealing it up once it arrives because as always, work is getting in the way of my playing with my car and I still have a few brake leaks to fix and some under the trans tunnel cleaning painting. So my engine, as anxious as I am, will essentially be unwrapped. Lovingly patted on the top, and stuffed inside a plastic bag and have one of it's limbs hacked off. Sorry, kinda went full Dexter there. I will very precisely and carefully, while under vacuum carefully separate the living tissue of the block from that nasty growth in my way.

Anyway, it will be getting sealed up well before going on the shelf but with some diligence, it will be installed late spring.

 

Really? Which lugs? Tell me more. I would sure rather cut those off out of the car than in. It's a BOP TH400, 1978 originally.

 

These were in the way of my blow shield from fitting on my transmission.

They are not in the way of headers ss those sit way below these.

But getting those lugs off the engine does make it alot easier to slide your headers up from the bottom

 

Engine bags are cool for their purpose... For cutting a lug ( as in Larrys pic above ) I would use a plastic wrap grips the motor better. Expose the lug, knob,chunk,, growth.. and D-tape around it. Use a porta-band to do the removal..

 

OK, let's back up here..

We know the headers fit on the engine. If the header was made correctly, then the machining pads will not be in the way.

We know the headers may require some modification to fit the chassis.

So, now I have to assume the machining pad is in the way, when trying to slip the headers in from the bottom.

Now the questions:

Do you have the TA pads mounted with the dual sets of holes, and do you have it them in the rear set of holes, which moves the motor forward slightly.

Are you using brand new motor mounts for your mock up? Old ones sag, and cause all kinds of issues.

Have you lifted the engine up, to get the header physically in and close to the exhaust ports. This is standard practice on all 455's, regardless of head type, for the driver side, Steering shaft complicates the fit. Passenger side typically slides right in on a Stage 1 with the starter not in place, Stage 2 headers often have to be lifted up to get the header in.

Have you tried to hold the engine a few inches off the mount pad. and bolt the headers on loosely, and then drop it into place, to identify where the header will need to be dinged to fit the chassis?

I can still cut the pad off the LH rear of the block, and am not worried in the least about contaminating the interior of the engine. I won't make you do it.

But in 35 years of installing every brand and type of BBB header, I have yet to have to saw off any of the block to get them to go in. For shorties and
Stage 2 headers, I like to loosen up and remove the steering shaft from the gearbox, to get that out of the way. You can also loosen up the bolts that hold the steering column to the firewall, and wiggle it around to get more clearance.

I don't have strong feelings about it one way or the other, but I believe I read once where TA will not accept a block for a core, when the machining pads have been removed. Mike feels pretty strongly about it, or he used to, have not talked about it with him lately.

But again, usually all it takes is to lift the LH side of the motor up.. either by lifting the whole engine up, or by leaving the passenger motor mount bolt in, and tilting it up, with your engine crane an a lift plate on the intake.

One thing that I often see, is folks try and drop the motor in, and then get the header in place. In an engine install situation, always set the headers in the chassis, before you drop the motor in. Use straps or bungee cords to hold the header in the approximate final position in he car, and then when the engine gets the dowels on the trans, with a couple bolts finger tight, but the motor not all the way down, then bolt the headers on.

One more tip.. the holes in the trans cross-member are slotted.. loosen the bolts up and slide the trans all the way forward. Then when your on the trans, you just push it back to hit the mounts.

After the headers are loosely bolted on...

I have a set of shorty headers on a 71 centurian here at the shop,. tomorrow I will throw an eyeball on that LH fit to get a feel for the issue.

JW

 

While we are on the subject, does anyone here have a 64-67 A body with a stage 1 455 and shorty headers on it?

Pictures or descriptions of what it took to get them to fit would help Jon out... sometimes it's hard to visualize exactly what it takes, to make a header fit.

JW

 

ok. Information. Always a good option to have information before cutting.

Current situation is, there is zero sheet metal on the front of the car. Wheels, suspension and steering are in place so I have all the pieces, just none of the headache with the fenders.

Let's hold on the cutting off of the lug. Yeah, it is in the way to just slide the header up, it isn't a big deal to lift that side of the block just a smidge to get them in.

I do have the TAP mounts and upon looking at the situation, I think I must have them mounted forward because I don't see how there would be any improvement to the passenger side header if it were further forward.
The motor mounts were not purchased new by me, however they do appear to be new and clean so I think Don, the previous owner, replaced them. They are clean and not oily at all.

I need to just stop and test fit. Time to get the correct length bolts, the gaskets and snug these thing flush so I can check firm interference points.

Work is pestering me, but I will see if I can't get some photo's up here in the next day or two to show how things fit snugged up.

 

Ya, that damn work does pester a person, can't get anything done on fun stuff.. ask my racecar that is sitting in the driveway covered in snow..

Will do, let us know how it works out, pics for guys in the future would be great.

JW