At local track today TNT

Next is idle air bleed adjustment

 

TNT garage time tomorrow I guess!

 

Float level should be at bottom of sight glass. If flooding check O ring on needle and seats.

 

That's one thing I never checked on this carb is the needle and seats.

When I did take this carb apart, boy it was messy.

I did replace all metering blocks gaskets, all power valve diaphrams, checked squirters.

 

Doesn't take much of a bur or Ill seating seat to make one run like hell

 

They will stick to wall too causing erratic symptoms as well

 

Well the power valve diaphrams I took out were hard as a rock. No movement at all. Replaced those.

I probably should've had this carb rebuilt.

 

Maybe it’s time…

 

Mount a fuel pressure gauge on the hood.. They sell a cup mount, put something soft under it to protect the paint. No hood drilling or modifications required.. mount it and feed the line thru the openings or "slats" in the rear of the hood over the open area of the cowl.

That is how we did our GS back in the day. Maintaining correct fuel pressure to the engine is every bit as important as oil pressure. Lack of either will kill an engine in one pass.

GET IT DONE

Good mechanical gauge:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...LJdVqRt0Xhz63udo5foyHW-1I-JhkHbhoCFzQQAvD_BwE

Mounting cup
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-3204

gauge tap at carb inlet line (assuming your using the correct -6 inlet hoses. If you have a hard line setup on it at the carb, then put that adapter before that. Everything in that fuel system should be AN from the pump to the carb.. rubber hoses and hose clamps are not something you should be using.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220675b

The proper fuel line kit

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2959


The 90* fitting in that kit screws right onto the back of the autometer fuel pressure gauge.. and points it down so the hose goes the right direction. Route the hose down into the recess of the cowl, pop a hole in the firewall in line with the carb and run the line down to the carb.

Yup, $170... that's what it costs to have a hot rod/race car. You saved way more than that buying a used carb, so let's spend some of that money on needed instrumentation, to make sure you don't blow up your 12K engine.


GET IT DONE



your current stalling issue?.. too much or too little fuel pressure is a huge factor here.

And yes, you need to replace at least the O-rings on the needle and seat assemblies. Buying a used carb instead of a new one, automatically assumes your going to go thru and replace all the soft parts, and return the calibration back to the factory settings.. The Holley list number guide has all the information. Tune and customize from there. I am pretty sure I told you to do that when I suggested you buy a used carb instead of a new one.. that is a logical place to save hundreds of dollars, but you do have to rebuild it, which for a Holley is simple and relatively cheap.

BTW, the proper fuel level, on the latest Holley bowls with the big sight glass, is halfway up the glass. Yet to see one that would not run in the car set like that. Make sure the extended vent tube (that little white plastic thing on the main body) is in place, front and rear... this prevents fuel sloshing that could cause a stall. Lowering the fuel levels in the bowels without insuring your able to maintain proper fuel delivery (via a wideband A/F ratio gauge) is NOT RECOMMENDED.


JW

 

I will sometime today.

I also have a dipstick transmission leak I have to fix today.

 

Jeremy, don’t want to sound like captain obvious, that hose connecting the front and rear vent tubes, make sure the tight bend isn’t blocking off the vent tubes at all. If you need a kit, check out Allstate Carburetor…..they have all the right parts, great prices. They’re on the inter web

 

Hey Jeremy, I had a vacuum issue, but it was a freak incident.

I had an engine fire last year.
Also all my vacuum hoses were 12 years old on my 70 GS 455.

What happened was, when I was getting full vacuum at Idle, the vacuum hose collapsed onto itself because the hose had lost all its material strength.

This most likely not your problem, but I did replace all my vacuum hoses.

This was a weird experience.
This was found by accident, so I was very lucky.

 

My car with a Quick fuel carb started doing the exact same thing 2 weeks ago. My carb needed to be taken apart, ultrasonic cleaned and reassembled. The gasket under the squirter's was bad and it was dumping fuel and cutting it off. Once we opened it up it looked like jello in there. It was last done 5 years ago and I use ethanol free gas with octane booster for the winter storage, but the summer driving with the crap gas takes its toll.

 

I found this info on-line.
May help anybody with the problem you had with your carburetor.

To make seals for a carburetor ethanol-resistant.

1. Choose materials and parts that are ethanol-resistant, including gaskets, o-rings, hoses, and other rubber or plastic components.
2. Clean the carburetor periodically to remove deposits and contaminants, ensuring efficient operation and prolonging its life.
3. Consider using fuel stabilizers like STA-BIL or Ethanol Shield to preserve fuel quality and prevent performance issues3.
4. Use adhesives, sealants, and coatings that provide advanced protection against oil, ethanol, and methanol exposure4.
5. For repair kits, consider products like Seal-All that are not affected by gasoline, oil, alcohol, water, and most solvents5.

Open link below:
https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=0ed2...vdGVjdC1jYXJidXJldG9yLWZyb20tZXRoYW5vbA&ntb=1

 

More Info:

• NBR (aka Nitrile/Buna/Buna-N) is the most common carburetor o-ring material. It is fairly good for use with pure gasoline, but not so good when any amount of ethanol is present. It most commonly has a working temperature range of -31 to +230° F. It is what is supplied by OEMs and what is found in the vast majority of aftermarket carburetor rebuild kits.

FKM (aka Fluorocarbon/Viton) is by comparison a relatively rare carburetor o-ring material. It is excellent for use with pure gasoline, ethanol blends, and pure ethanol. It most commonly has a working temperature range of -4 to +410° F. It has a much greater life span than the above, is therefore what we supply in our kits, and is what 99% of the o-rings we sell separately are made of (if they are not, they will not be described as FKM in the listing). As an example, we rebuilt a rack of BS30 carburetors with FKM o-rings. When they were taken apart again to clear clogs after having been exposed to 10% ethanol fuel for 7 years, we found all o-rings to be in reusable condition.

• Master Bond's adhesives, sealants, and coatings provide advanced protection against oil, ethanol, and methanol exposure.
• Nitrile is widely used in the seal industry due to its excellent resistance to petroleum products and versatility over a wide temperature range.

• • Master Bond's adhesives, sealants, and coatings provide advanced protection against oil, ethanol, and methanol exposure.
  • Nitrile is widely used in the seal industry due to its excellent resistance to petroleum products and versatility over a wide temperature range.
• Master Bond's adhesives, sealants, and coatings provide advanced protection against oil, ethanol, and methanol exposure.
• Nitrile is widely used in the seal industry due to its excellent resistance to petroleum products and versatility over a wide temperature range.

 

Ok I have 6psi at idle and 50 mph. I will see what it reads at full throttle Saturday.

So then I was having issues setting the front bowl. I played for 2 hours. I finally took the bowl off and noticed the anti slosh plate fell off and was blocking the float.

Anyways tomorrow I'm putting new .130 needles in and should be good on the fuel issues.

 

Use paper gaskets on the seats ...the nylon are garbage

 

Ok right now it has nylon and .120.

I bought quick fuel type off Amazon. Looks like they are paper gaskets but doesn't specify.

 

Good deal..Them damn nylon rarely seal in my experience