Any recommendations on a brake controller?

Discussion in 'The Choo-Choo shop' started by jimbobbuickboy, Apr 22, 2007.

  1. jimbobbuickboy

    jimbobbuickboy Well-Known Member

    Can anyone out there recommend a brake controller unit to be mounted in the cab of my truck, used to activate trailer brakes? Operational excellence and ease of installation are my main concerns. Seems like they run from around $50 to $200. I'll pull a 27 foot enclosed trailer with a 2004 Silverado HD2500.
     
  2. Guy Parquette

    Guy Parquette Platinum Level Contributor

    I use the Drawtite #5500. Sold hundreds of them with none coming back defective. Easy hook up and it's very easy to use...also it is 100% digital. What ever you go with make sure it's a digital style. These sell for about 90.00 bucks.
     
  3. Keith Seymore

    Keith Seymore Well-Known Member

    I trust Guy's recommendation; also, the electrical engineer here at work is pretty high on a Tekonsha Prodigy (I think that's the right model).

    Let me know when your ready to wire it up. I can tell you what color wire goes where and where to add fuses and such. It's not that hard, I do it every 90 days!

    You'll need one of the trailer harnesses that plugs in under the dash. Let me know if you don't have one; I probably have one out in the garage I could send.

    K
     
  4. justalark

    justalark Silver Level contributor

    Tip
    When installing the controller (or having someone doing it) take into account the seat position when you're driving. The dealer mounted mine inline with the gas pedal and its now my personal knee knocker:Dou:
    Gene
     
  5. jimbobbuickboy

    jimbobbuickboy Well-Known Member

    I believe that I've still got the trailer harness in my glove box. Is there an open harness end under the dash that I just plug this into? Then the other end into the controller? This sounds too easy. There must be something else to it, that I can screw up.......:confused:

     
  6. Greg Schmelzer

    Greg Schmelzer What are you looking at?!

    Jimbob, yes there is a connector under your dash. If you look on the drivers side to the left of the steering column, there will be a black plastic cover with a black plastic nut securing it. If you remove the cover, there are a buch of connectors under it. The brake controller is on the upper row, 2d one in from the left. Your harness will plug in here. the other end of your harness will get wired to the controller. They are, in most cases, color coded and nearly impossible to connect incorrectly.

    Sounds like I've done this before, don't it?!?!?

    Also, the Prodigy was recommended by the RV dealership in my home town. I can be an idiot at times, and didn't listen to them. I went with a Hayes controller for about $60 and have to replace it after less than a year, so I recommend staying away from Hayes. My pops has had a Kelley controller for over 20 years and has had absolutely zero issues with it.

    HTH
     
  7. Keith Seymore

    Keith Seymore Well-Known Member

    Well said, Greg.

    The 2001-2007 (Classic) setup really is pretty slick. Once you have that harness connected to your controller you can plug it into any C/K truck without a problem*. You might also need to add a fuse to the "stud 1" location in the underhood BEC if you have interior lights in your trailer.

    I must admit we've taken a step backwards for the 2007 GMT900 version. You will need to wire to blunt cut leads under the dash every time, plus some underhood wiring will need to be attached. More on that later if you guys have questions.

    *Be advised that the 2001-2002 harness is different than 2003 and beyond. One of the pinouts was changed; 2001-2002 connectors will be brown and 2003 and beyond will be white. Make sure you get the right one for your truck.

    K
     
  8. GoldBoattail455

    GoldBoattail455 462 -> TH400 -> Posi

    I put a Tekonsha Prodigy in my buddy's 2001 Suburban, about a 10 minute job. Easy and straight forward. Although we never put a fuse in the "stud 1" location.
     
  9. Keith Seymore

    Keith Seymore Well-Known Member

    Sometimes there is already a fuse there, like if you have "VSES (ie, "Stabilitrak") or the Real Time Suspension option.

    On a pickup I think you pretty much always have to add the fuse if you want lights inside your trailer....

    K
     
  10. austingta

    austingta Well-Known Member

    I experienced this little quirk 1st hand. Why, in their infinite wisdom, did Chevy do it like that?
     
  11. GoldBoattail455

    GoldBoattail455 462 -> TH400 -> Posi

    You know whats even weirder Frank, that the new 3/4 ton and 1 ton models have the brake controller option. Go figure.
     
  12. austingta

    austingta Well-Known Member

    Yeah-- I've got the knockout for it... I wonder if the wiring is there?
     
  13. SmallHurst

    SmallHurst The Polyglas Pimp!

    I highly doubt it. If GM (or Ford) can save a penny per unit, they think that they struck gold! Extra wire for a non-checked item = extra money they are 'throwing away'!
     
  14. Keith Seymore

    Keith Seymore Well-Known Member

    It was a combination of a cost save, as well as real estate in that "LH BEC" (ie, the old underdash fuse block location).

    I pushed back as soon as I realized what was happening and my management said "Seymore, we are not optimizing this design just for you". :Dou:

    I doubt the wiring is there, as mentioned. Multiply a penny times 2 million vehicles and pretty soon you're talking real money...:Smarty: :laugh:

    K
     
  15. Greg Schmelzer

    Greg Schmelzer What are you looking at?!


    Keith, could you elaborate further on the wiring differences, please. I have gone from an '01 to an '03 and I think that ,perhaps, this is the issue with my controller not working properly.

    When connected, it does not actuate the trailer brakes when the brake pedal is pressed. It will activate them manually (i.e. pushing the lever on the controller over). However, when pushing the lever over, the park lights on the trailer as well as the truck illuminate. If I have the gain cranked up, the trailer brakes are locked up tighter than Dick's hat band and will not release until the gain is turned down all the way. I have taken the controller out of the truck for the time being for fear of burning up the trailer brakes, not to mention the wear and tear of the additional load on the truck.

    any help would be greatly appreciated. I would rather not have to buy a new controller if I only need to get a new butt splice or two. Money's been tight this year. Tighter than usual.

    Thanks.
     
  16. Keith Seymore

    Keith Seymore Well-Known Member

    Yes - when we went to a new electrical architecture in 2003 somebody (!) forgot about the aftermarket brake controllers and switched two wire locations in that LH BEC (the old fuse block location underdash). A couple of us that pull trailers discovered it pretty early into the model year and the fix was to change that trailer brake harness.

    You could do one of two things: (a) you could get a 2003 or later harness, with the white connector on the end, and rewire it to your brake controller - or - (b) you could repin two of the wires in your existing connector (brown plug) and just label it that you made a change, which is what we did with mine.

    That was a long time ago for me, but if you give me a day or so I can probably figure out which two wires we switched.

    K
     
  17. SmallHurst

    SmallHurst The Polyglas Pimp!

    I know what you are talking about. I am at Ford KC as a supplier and they are trying to get blood from a turnip!:dollar:
     
  18. Keith Seymore

    Keith Seymore Well-Known Member

    Greg - check your PM's...:TU:
     

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