I tried all kinds of wider than stock tires for years. No low gear traction at any speed. Even had no bite from standing start with 275R60-15 MT Street with stock suspension. I could get a fair launch with my switch pitch by flipping a manual switch into low stall, hit the throttle, 1 or 2 seconds later, switch to high stall. And then: Then came the no hop bars, hellwig anti sway bar, viking dubble adjustable shocks set to 3 clicks compression and 7 clicks up (rebound), and I entered a whole new world of dopamine rush!!! I'll never burn rubber again. Warning. Don't hit the gas unless you are pointed straight all clear ahead cause that where it's going. Turning onto a road expecting fishtail fun, get a video of the crash for youtube. Good luck.
A few notes here The taller the tire the better the footprint ie hooks better and more consistent. Lay a 2 liter bottle on the counter on its side next to a 20 oz bottle. Look how much more area the 2 liters circumference touches the counter than the lil bottle. This is exagerated but when ur tire runs 16 psi it makes a big difference between a 26 and 28 inch tall tire. Especially on marginal tuned chassis street cars. Some of the fastest door cars in the world are on mt 275 60 et street radial pro tires. Sub 1.0 60 foot times for those guys and high 3s in the 1/8 mile at around 200 mph. 2nd note. 8.5 10 bolts when built correct can take a bashing. Ive had numerous 1.2x 60 fts on my 8.5 10 bolt in a camaro with a best of a 1.25 60 foot time. Spool, axles, c clip eliminators, welded tubes to center section and a girdle cover. Hundreds of passes of sub 1.35 60 fts on mine and no issues. Knock on wood. So if u break something in ur 8.5 just replace the weak link with something a lil beefier!
This has been an informative thread. I have to give thought to just how much track time I plan to have vs. how important things like speedo error, 60 ft times, tire diameters, etc. What it boils down to is whether I decide to wear drag redials all the time on the street or, just install them for infrequent trips to the track. I think I'll wait until the new motor is in the car in a couple of weeks to see just how tuff it is to manage the power on the street with the 295 Radial T/As. I think I know the answer.
Every tenth reduction in 60' time can be worth 2-3 tenths on the big end. I am sure you will want to see what it does at the track, but that isn't real world on the street unless you want to take some chances, and risk your safety, and those around you. That's the bottom line. I use the same size Drag Radial as my street tire, so speedometer error isn't an issue, just the aforementioned spare tire consideration. IMO, unless you live out in the country where you have wide open roadways, Drag Radials are a waste for the street. My local speed limits are 25 MPH, and even less in school zones, which seem to be everywhere. They give you 10 MPH, and at 11MPH over, the camera snaps your picture, and sends you the bill. My only fun is on highway on ramps, and I run out of room very quickly there as well as there always seems to be enough slow traffic to shut you down. I still love driving my car, but I know what it can do and have the time slips to prove it. Some guy with a Chevelle couldn't believe my GS was that fast, he wanted to race. I pulled out my fastest time slip and showed it to him. I said, you got a faster slip, you win.. Of course he didn't have one, probably never had his car at the track. After you get the engine in the car, there will likely be some "teething pains". It will take a bit until you get it just the way you want it. Then you will take it to the track and see what it actually runs. You'll do that a bunch more times, trying different things. Sometimes it will work, more often, it won't. After a while, you'll know what the car can do, and accept it, and then just enjoy the car for what it is. That's where I am right now.
We live in a fairly rural area about 35 miles northwest of Orlando and have lots of major highways (US441) and expressways and by-passes. So, I do get to enjoy a spirited run from time to time. Our local track, Speedworld Orlando is an NHRA track with two test & tune nights a week. But, it's about 50 miles from my house so, I do much of my 1/4 mile testing with my "Dragy" which is a GPS based race computer which is very accurate. And I have a friend with a 80 acre farm that lets me use his approach road for an occasional 1/8 or 1/4 mile jaunt. He's also a retired cop that is buddies with our current chief. Drag racing from stoplights is no longer an option for me. They throw on the cuffs and take your car here.
Yes, very accurate as long as you stay on a level road and start it at the right time. A neat instrument that has saved me the 100 mile round trip to our local track which is easily $35 in gas plus the entry fee.
The slip was a 5.32 at the strip. What trips me out is i lifted at the eighth (its a eight track) slightly on brakes and still coasted to a 8.8 in the quarter on way to the return road
