ok,got my new waterpump today,went out to the shop to install.looks good on.BUT!!! the alt. belt hits the pump housing.what's everyone doing to run a alternator? is there a different bracket? i see in previous posts that mezeire is selling a new design pump that this is'nt supposed to happen.the red pump i got still does.... any pics would be great.
I had the same problem you have to put the alternator almost to the very left of the adjustment and get a couple of belts to try. it will work just have to fool around with it.
Adam is right. Just get a few different belts and you'll find the right one that won't rub. You can't see the pump in this pic but you get an idea on where the top alt. bracket should be to keep it from hitting.
Dan the car that Todd posted the pic of is in my garage. I will go out tommorow and see what size the V-belt is. I think I made 3 trips to the parts store on this one. That pump is a real nice piece I will never use anything else.
Here's a photo of the Meziere pump on my engine. There are at least two different diameter factory lower crank pulley's. If you can find the smaller dia. pulley or use the billet pulley from TA the belt will clear with room to spare. I also thought the newer pumps were modified in some fashion to alleviate this problem.... maybe with a smaller dia. motor housing.....o No:
thanx for the info guys,but has anyone ran the large moroso alt pulley? i see all these pics are with the standerd small pulley.maybe that's why i can't get it.o No:
Dan, I haven't tried the Moroso pulley but I used to run the large GM pulley that was originally spec'd out for the Chev L88 engine. Which I think was just over 3" in diameter. A 63 amp alternator if its putting out full amperage at 12 volts will use almost 1 horsepower at 756 watts (746 watts is 1 hp), add a bit more wattage if the voltage is higher. Not counting the small amount of parasitic drag driving the alt and belt. My point is the power loss by running the smaller pulley is negligible over the larger dia. aftermarket pulley. The deeper sheeve pulley to keep it from throwing the belt at higher rpm is probably where the benefit comes into play. But I've never had the belt throw with my smaller pulley but I'm only twisting it in 6,500 rpm range.
It's the circumference of the belt at the point the belt contacts and grips the pulleys. That number is used as nomenclature for calling out belt length. Devon
The circumference of the belt is called out in the part number. For instance the belt in question has a PN of 15430. Gates, Dayco etc all use a similar system.
I ran an aftermarket upper alt bracket from Steet & Performance, 140amp alt, and the stock pulley. If ur gona be driving this car on the street alot I would advise against the larger pulley. It might hinder ur alt charging capabilities just a bit. Just change the crank to an underdriven. Just my 2 cents. Hope the pic helps
Guys this can be made to work real easy with mostly stock parts. Mike is right about the underdrive alternator pulley being a bad idea for a care that may spend a lot of time at idle. I have a regular SI type GM alternator and everything on the car is electric and the charging/cooling system gives me no trouble on a 13.5 race engine that sees the street plenty.
ohhhhhh,whats that master cylinder Mike? disc/drum? http://www.v8buick.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110232&d=1205191139
It looks similar to the setup I'm running. MY M/C is from an 82 LeSabre (disc/drum) with the stepped piston, but since my car is 4 whl disc I removed the residual valve and am using an adjustable proportioning valve to bias the braking front/rear. The booster is from an early 80's Cavilier... small dia. helps clear the valve covers with room to spare.
Todd do you use your car as a driver or is this pump only for track use. It looks sweet. I always had cooling problems. I can't use the car in extreme heat!!:rant:
