A sweet sbb 350 combos if anyone is thinking of building one.

Measure your small ends of rods . then see if machine shop can open to .827 pin. Its only about .020 each side off rod.

 

Just tell them to make the pistons with a .787" wristpin bore for 2.00" long X .787" wristpins and buy these;



http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-NASCAR-...ash=item5b0f590aaf:g:fSUAAMXQGQRSA5J0&vxp=mtr

They are good enough to run in an 850 HP nascar engine they should work just fine for you. :TU:


Derek

 

Are these any good?

[h=1]6.450" Carrillo Tapered Beam Rods 1.980"-.900" Wide-.787" WP NASCAR[/h]



http://www.ebay.com/itm/151465658341?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

They seem to be good . I looked at them before. Should make for a shorter lighter piston . More piston dwell . Should be better low end and less rpm. Just my thoughts.

 

I was a little worried about the pin size...little small, no?
I know you can order custom Pistons, but really didn't wanna go overboard on rod strength, and then throw it away on the wrist pin size.

Have not torn the other engine down yet to see how far down the Pistons are in the holes...but thought these would make a nice strong bottom end that could rev higher than 6K.

 

Pin size isn't an issue since they change what the pins are made of. And change wall thickness of pin. pin will be the last thing you might break.

 

Then I guess this set would be of great value to our build.
Do you think the big ends could be opened up without losing too much strength, or have the crank ground to fit these rods?

 

The nascar engines are around 850 HP that spin to 9,000 + RPM with the "small" pins so no worries there. Those rods the big end can be opened up to the 2.008" housing bore diameter if you want to go with the 1.888" bearings, but I wouldn't go anymore than that. Opening them up to 2.125" housing bore diameter of a stock sbb rod would be boring very close to or possibly into the bolts! :eek2:

2.008" - 1.976" = .032" larger diameter that = .016" of material taken off per side of the diameter which isn't that much that wouldn't cause any structural weakening.

So the crank would still have to be taken down to the 1.888" rod journal diameter plus the extra machining cost to take the rods to the 2.008" diameter. The crank would probably cost the same to stroke it .100" than it would cost to stroke it .140", the extra cost for the rod bore change is up to you. o No:


Derek

 

.....so are they worth it or not?
I think cutting the crank down would be better than opening up the rods.
They are cheap enough...but with all the extra machining required. ..not sure...but they are definitely better than stock 72 rods.

 

Yes they're worth it, plus you can pickup about 20 CID if you go with .040" over pistons like this build;


http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?200499-the-dyno-numbers-are-in&highlight=1021

You won't need a rev limiter using those rods :Brow: plus they're around 100 grams less each than the cap screw rods.(haven't weighed an earlier rod)

Having the crank ground is around $200, will cost around an extra $150 to have it offset ground. Rods shouldn't cost more than $100 to have them narrowed.(I would only charge no more $50 to do this but shipping would kill that)

So the $150 rods actually cost a max of $400 which is still less than having a stock set of cap screw rods race prepped with ARP bolts, which would be around $200 for labor to R&R the bolts and recondition the big bores, $120 for the bolts, and the cost of having the beams polished and shot peened, $150 for a grand total of $470 in a set of inferior rods. Or $455 from TA without polishing the beams and shot peening them;

http://taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1628A

Plus there is a $160 core charge through TA it you don't have a set to send in.

So do YOU think those are worth it or not? :Brow: If all you want to do is a stock low cost low performance rebuild then those rods aren't necessary. If you want some "Extended Power" out of your sbb 350 build and don't mind spending a little bit of extra $ for the gain in power, then those rods would definitely be the way to go.

The AutoTec 4032 forged pistons are a good choice for a higher compression N/A engine or if you want to send some boost thru it then a nice set of 2618 forged lower compression custom pistons would be the ticket.

I would do a 10:1 pump gas build with the AutoTec pistons and have the block sonic tested to see how much overbore it can handle, if it could handle a .105" overbore I would make the engine a sbb 383!! 3.905" bore with a 3.990" stroke. :TU:


Derek

 

Thank you Derek.

I'm sure if we get them, and we have any questions, you, or someone else with way more knowledge than me, could answer them.

edit: bought them.

 

I think you're going to like the extra cubes, should give the mild to moderate BBB guys a run for their $$ with 383 cubes depending on what you do to the heads and the cam you choose and not to mention the hundreds of pounds lighter the car well be and the ability to rev past 5,000 RPM!!! A cam that makes power to 7,000 RPM would be a good choice, I think the roller cam that Mart runs in his sbb 350 would fit the bill? Its to bad he has stock rods in his engine and doesn't rev much past 6,000 maybe as much as 6,500? But with much more if he could trust the stock rods to rev it higher.

Just make sure you setup the rest of the car to handle the new found HP safely. :TU:

Are aluminum heads in the future plans?(if they're ever for sale?)


Derek

 

Yes, we are waiting for the heads to come out from TA Performance.

 

Bumping this for the information.

 

Here's a list of bearings for the 1.850" bearings for the rods with the 1.976" housing bore;

https://www.summitracing.com/search...eywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=1798h


Some for less;

http://www.sriperformance.com/clevite-connecting-rod-bearing-p/cle-cb-1798h-1.htm






Derek

 

Thank you Derek, for going over, and above, in helping me and my machinist, get my sons build straightened out for us.

 

Derek's a good guy. Though he and I have had some disputes (usually over petty shtuff), he's always been super helpful and knowledgeable. :TU:

 

Finally talked to Trevor your machinist earlier today and sent him to this thread with the bearings I found real quick and posted last night, not really a big deal but you're welcome, anytime.

Sounds like you're going to end up with a 3.980" stroke? I think he said he's going to try for 3.990", he may of forgot that he is starting with a .010" under crank.(forgot it was .010" under when I talked to him so I didn't mention it) Anyway it would be VERY cool if you could find a decent block with minimum core shift so you can go big with the bore, like .105 over with the 3.990" bore would be a sbb 383! But still with only a .040" over would be rounded up a sbb 370, so not to shabby.


A sbb 370 with a those super light 6.450" nascar rods with pistons that have a compression distance of 1.748" if the deck height is 10.188" and with a 3.980" stroke will make for some light for a sbb pistons for a fast and easy revving rotating assembly! Especially with a roller cam like the one Mart has in his 355.

After the bottom end is done its going to want to be topped off with heads that will feed the extra cubes with some air! Extra cubes will help to bring the RPM down to make more low end torque(especially with unported heads :shock, but still be able to spin to 7,500 if you have the flow to support that. :Brow:

Can hardly wait to hear how this one turns oot(Canadian for out :laugh! :TU:



Derek