My hot rod weighs 3300lb with me in it. 832hp 800ft/lb tq 555, 12:1, stg2 TE, .650" @255, CFE tunnelram 2 x 840cfm ProSystem carbs E85 TH400 with 3200 stall manual shift 9" rear 3.25 Detroit locker 1.6 60ft 6.90 1/8 106mph 10.7 1/4 118mph shifting at 5500rpm then backing out. Wasn't allowed to run in the tens. No cage or parachute.:Brow: Here is the pass http://youtu.be/Bl0PzFzQOVA We are stepping up to 13.5:1 comp and run a race converter Cheers
Ha , ..Man I have watched that video more times than you will ever know over the past few years. Car is a beast
I can't leave anything alone iv only got 6 passes on my current setup and far from maximizing it and already im wanting to mess with it ha, I need help, maybe an intervention. Ha, Im definitely goin to max out this pumpgas setup b4 changing it up. But after thats done im finding some more power for sure
Steve, this sounds EXACTLY like the 470 Im almost finished with. 11-1, stage 2 TEs maxed out, hydraulic roller cam, 1050 dominator. I have the MSD billet distributor and haven't gotten a box yet Is the adjustable timing you're talking about in a certain box??
Yeah, the torque throws them off...I was talking to ATI about a converter and gave them all the specs and they came back and said the car would run low 11s. I told them it had already run low 10s and he got pissy and said there must be some thing you aren't telling me. I said no but maybe you aren't considering the BBB torque. He also said I can't run a 3.25 gear with even the tightest 8in converter and automatic valve body. Said it would last about 10 passes. Drive right thru it. 600 passes later........ I say build best you can and whatever it runs it runs....dynos, calculators, ET predictor programs.....the track is my dyno.
Mine is a 13.3 to 1 505 with a mild roller. The first year it was together it was about 3500 lbs and ran 9.70s at 136-137 through mufflers. Since, I've removed a little over 100 lbs and tweaked a few things for power. It will go .60 almost anytime, 50's in good air and has touched the .40s a few times at 3380 lbs. I've never dyno'd this engine. My speculation was always that it is about a 750HP combo...Maybe 730 in the summer and 770 in the fall....But not 800. The whole combination is on a stand now while the car has gotten some updates and further weight reduction in preparation for my Tomahawk.
Gary your junk is always top notch. Looks great, runs great. I'm always impressed with your craftsmanship.
Gary, hope to see your car this next year! Haven't seen it in a while. Steve/Dave's and your's are on my list of all time favorites.... that's for sure!! Sure miss having a BUICK right now!! Anxious to start the next build!! Steve
Gary, What size headers are those and how much caster were you able to get with those upper arms? I set-up a 9-sec 72 Camaro race car this summer and the owner didn't want shims, and I had a heck of a time getting a couple of degrees of positive caster using the adjustable arms. Next race align was an 8-sec 70 Chevelle and he didn't care about shims and it made my life a whole lot easier and he got a better alignment. Fantastic-looking as always!
They were/are 2 1/8" TA headers that were modified to clear my mid plate. That's an old picture. The A-arms were from PA Racing and required some reworking to get about 5 degrees. (no shims) New A-arms are from TRZ and I've not had it on an alignment rack yet.
Getting positive caster is easy.... just slot the holes on the A-arm cross bars and you can easily move them backwards and get positive caster without the use of shims. If you don't have a mill handy just find someone that does... not that difficult. I had 6 degrees on my GSX and it tracked as true and straight as anything I ever drove. The factory design to use shims for castor adjustment was engineered to only achieve a very small amount of adjustment. Not enough for a properly set up drag car. I've seen cars with shims stacked to well over 1/2". That's just not the way it was designed to be and I sure can't believe it's all that safe.
Steve, Did you use slugs too? I had thought about that too but never got around to making slugs. You should market them, in a couple of different sizes, half-mooners. Just as a pile of shims isn't too safe, I don't know if the arms would stay put coming down from a hard wheelie or jabbing the brakes on @ 140+ without some sort of bushing or slug in the voids. After we added a couple of more bays on my auto repair shop (which included a wheel alignment system) I did a lot of experimenting with my convertible. I tried the offset factory cross bars, and they only give a little more camber which allows for a little more caster. It's a lot of work for another 1-2 degrees of caster, and in that car I couldn't tell the difference at 120 MPH trap speed. I tried aligning with the front end up about an inch, and again, nothing noticeable to me. When I got the X on the alignment rack, it had already been down the track at 137-141. The caster was found to be less than 2 degrees, and yet the car felt rock solid. Matter of fact, it felt more stable at 140 than at 126-128 when I made the first pass after I got the car, after making some other changes. I decided at that point not to mess with it, no tubular arms, no offset cross shafts and no slots. IMO, other factors in the chassis set-up are more important for high speed stability than adding a ton of caster.
I just installed Global West TLC uppers and lowers, along with dropping the front 3.5in, and added spoilers, I sure hope it helps with stability, mine didn't feel scary with stock suspension but over 100 it did feel very light, with what felt like a slight amount of vibration I the steering wheel. But its got an S10 manual box and its like 24 to 1 or something
