first off we all will agree the TA Block is the best avenue for harnessing 750hp, but thats at least $10k for a steel crank and rod shortblock , i myself hope to eventually get one but its so far off im not even gonna daydream about it. This brings me to my question for the cats who's done this with the iron, what is really needed and ballpark whats the end investment in a prepped ready to assemble iron block,? 1. lifter girdle or putty? 2. halo girdle or not? 3. billet main caps or pinned deburred stock caps or both billet and pinned? 4. block girdle , we'll just assume this is a given 5. stock crank , stock crank with throws turned down, or the heavier and stronger steel crank 6. engine plates? ive seen quite a few LS's engines live up to more than they should and i myself feel the plates made it possible 7. block fill we"ll just a half fill granted we all know comp, spring psi, internals weight and angles will play a major role but just looking for general idea of cost and just how much is needed and if one thing or another may just be a waste
So a Wiseco flat top .038 w/pontiac rods, 0 Deck, nicely ported iron stage one heads 7XR cam would produce about how much HP and what needs to be done to the block for insurance?
Awesome feedback guys just what I was l looking for , I had thought about using all the engine mount holes and fabbing up a 7/16 in plate mount in conjunction with plates, it would have to help tie it all together. Gonna start on the chassis this winter ,goal is a solid 9 sec 3600lb car that will live
More of a guesstimate/goal I guess, gonna add some and remove bout the same maybe less, would love to keep it all steel but I would maybe do glass bumpers and paint them with that new chrome paint that is out now if I had too, fab alum bumper brackets, tubular arms, thought about cutting engine cross member out and using moly there as well for more clearance, no 1/4 glass regulators, alum exhaust with Vbands, I know my fully dressed A/C 70 aluminum head car weighs 3950 race weight and my old mans iron head bare bones clutch car weighs 3750 race weight with steel wheels, so 3600 seems realistic no?
Yes....Very realistic. My car is very similar to what you've described and it's about 3220lbs without driver an 3385lbs with. I'm losing 80lbs with the TA block and with a few other trimmings I'm hoping to get close to 3200lbs with driver. I would think 3600lbs is very easy.
1. lifter girdle or putty? No, hydrolic roller springs (130 lbs seat/ 230 open) 2. halo girdle or not? Halo girdle 3. billet main caps or pinned deburred stock caps or both billet and pinned? stock scaps reworked 4. block girdle , we'll just assume this is a given No 5. stock crank , stock crank with throws turned down, or the heavier and stronger steel crank Stock crank 6. engine plates? ive seen quite a few LS's engines live up to more than they should and i myself feel the plates made it possible 7. block fill we"ll just a half fill 1/2 fill Engine was boosted with a Procharger Keep the RPMs less than 6500 and it will live If you go with solid roller springs, you will need a lifter girdle.
It looks like RPM's are the key for the extra things to do for the power. On Block fill if you drive it on the street how high of fill can be used and cooling still work correctly?
With a 1/2 fill you can still have a cooling system on the engine. I think you should have an oil temperture guage though. I did and still do even though I no longer run a block that is 1/2 filled.
Im more of a NA kinda of guy, just love to hear the pop of hi comp, the cam and the throttle response, but if I did forced induction, which I haven't completely ruled out ,it would be turbo as it would be more economical as I can fab all the plumbing myself , and BW 400's are cheap, and the Engine wouldn't require any big $ top end parts just a solid 400hp , to throw boost at, I do admit tho a YSI or D/F1 do sound nasty.
Hugger, Buizila is at 4000lbs w/driver. I'm making 100hp less than the 750 you're talking about,but my car is a street car that runs on pump gas. Has 40+yr old stock crank w/40+yr stock rods. Running 10.6 compression, Poston's girdled oil pan, and oil mods. Shift and run through the traps between 6700 and 6800 rpm's and have been running this combo now for about 10yrs without any bearing issues. Have ran a best of 10.65 @125mph at Norwalk,OH last month. I am just one of many others that are able to get this kind of performance on and off the street. So with the right combo you can run a cast iron block well into the 10's and even tiptoe into the 9's with streetability and longevity. Just need to do your homework before building it.
Yea your blue car is a bad bitch, I was hoping to line up beside you at the Nats last year, I would have got creamed as you had a full sec on me but it would have been two of the sharpest 70's goin down the track , my orange car is under the knife now should Be 10.80s on 93 no.prob with stock rods this year, gonna keep shifts at 6200 or less, im gonna build a new car this winter that I can beat on and try to keep the orange car from becoming the track whore
Thanks man. Now I know the car you have. I love that orange on an old muscle car. Had a 72 skylark that color. Keep up the good work and keep it wicked fast and streetalble.
Our car is a little over 3300 without driver now. Full interior, stock seats, moly 8.50 cage. Car has glass bumpers and hood, light weight fabbed bumper brackets, moly core support and rack and pinion. TRZ front control arms and 12 bolt w HR suspension on rear and custom moly trans cross member. Also has 3.5 xpipe and mufflers.
Gary, wasn't there discussion about the new block not being much lighter because of the massive caps on the TA block? I hope your right, 80lbs would be nice off the nose.
My Tomahawk is 160-something and my iron,Girdled factory block was 240-something. So yes...Count on 80lbs +/-
