I need Help! I went to start my 68 the other day and it would not crank over in the start position. The ignition switch itself has 4 positions. ACC, LOCK, ON AND START. All accessories work fine until I get to START. At first I thought it was the ignition switch itself but maybe its the starter solenoid. Any and all feedback is appreciated.
If it has tilt wheel try moving the column thru the different tilts from the bottom to the top while holding it in the start position . Also pull the gear shift all the way up to PARK . Then try putting it in Neutral to see if it will start and slightly moving the gear shift lever .
First off, what's it actually doing when you try to crank it? Does it click? No noise at all? Do the lights dim when you try cranking it?
To the above suggestions. 68 has a dash mounted switch. Not likely a problem in the column. Second. the vid shown is of a Ford starter solenoid. If you dont know what your working with dont lead the guy down a rabbit trail. For testing. Theres 2 small wires on the starter solenoid, Yellow and purple P on the S term and Y on the R. When you turn the key P should be hot which will engage the starter. Y sends full 12V to the coil. There are also 2 fusible links going to the starter. both have to be good. You can jump 12V to S as a test. If it turns over your problem is in the wiring. If it dont its in the starter.
I missed the year Briz but the idea of trying to start in neutral is still valid . And pulling the shift lever up as far as possible is valid too .
Or try the quick and dirty method of hitting the starter with a hammer while someone holds the key in the crank position. If it starts cranking, it's a bad armature in the starter
Do not overlook battery terminals/posts. If loose or corroded will act like this. Even "clean" looking terminals can have a thin (dark grey) oxidised layer insulating the terminals and posts. Use a "battery brush". Most autopart stores carry them.
Im betting on fusible link. If it was here I'd know in less time than it takes to get the car off the ground and blocked.
14 AWG (for the 10 AWG wire) 16 AWG (for the 12 AWG wire) https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BEL784692 https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BEL784694?impressionRank=7
I finally read my service manual and if it is the fuseable link I'm pretty sure I can repair. I will keep you guys posted!
I prefer solder and heat shrink tubing, or "crimp/melt" type butt splices on such repair, since it is so important, and subject to oil and water intrusion. Hope that helps.
I would make sure it's not the neutral safety switch before pulling the starter. I have done it the other way around and learned my lesson!
