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67 gs stall

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by ArcticRyan, May 9, 2025.

  1. ArcticRyan

    ArcticRyan Well-Known Member

    So my 67’ GS has a 430 matched up to a switch pitch TH400. Car idles great and no vacuum leaks, and initial timing is 8 degrees. Has a mild cam from TA. Idles great around 800rpm. When I put into gear or reverse the rpm drops and it stumbles and quits. If I put in Reverse abs hit gas right away i can keep it going. Driving down the road everything is great! Car runs about perfect. But again at stop light in D it wants to quit. weird thing is if i manually put the shifter down into 1st when I go to stop it doesn’t stall. If I try this in D it stalls..
    is there any chance the switch pitch is not going into high stall at stop and putting more load on motor making it quit?
    Any ideas guys?
    Ryan
     
    Dano likes this.
  2. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    Run a 12v wire to the "stator" terminal (top/horizontal) on the case plug, driver's side of the transmission.
    With the car off, actuating the switch should initiate the solenoid and make an audible "click", but it may be hard to hear as the solenoid is mounted to the back of the pump and "buried" deep in the transmission.

    Put the car in gear, hold the foot brake and trigger the switch.
    You should feel the car reduce the "tug/pull" against the brake.

    You can also try the switch on or off and see if it has any affect on acceleration from a dead stop.

    You might not notice as much difference with the TH-400 SP 13 inch converter as you would with the ST-300 12 inch SP converter.

    Checking the switching (brake/carb/kickdown) and how your car is triggering the hi/lo stall as it might be working in some cases, but not all as designed.

    There is also a dashpot, that works together with the stator change to prevent stalling when moving the gear selector and when braking to a stop.

    You may need to check to see it is working and adjusted correctly.

    Do you have the chassis/shop manual?
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    You should be able to feel the stall change. I could see it on my tachometer with the transmission in gear, and foot on the brake. I had an electronic box controlling the switch pitch, and it had optional manual control. How is your SP controlled?
     
  4. ArcticRyan

    ArcticRyan Well-Known Member

    Right now I have the old system in place. I have a controller ordered from Bruce Roe right now.
     
  5. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    What is "The Old System"
     
  6. ArcticRyan

    ArcticRyan Well-Known Member

    The original system that it came with..
     
  7. ArcticRyan

    ArcticRyan Well-Known Member

    If I remember correctly is the switch pitch suppose to go into high stall mode when the brake is applied so your car doesn’t try and creep forward while sitting at the light?
    Ryan
     
  8. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Totally bananas

    Yes. Brake pedal to prevent harsh shifting in and out of Park into Reverse/Neutral/Drive, and (carb linkage switch) to give greater torque multiplication from a start or when "passing" or upper throttle smashing.
     
  9. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    If you have the original system, there is the throttle mounted switch, and one closer to the firewall. The one near the firewall puts the converter in hi stall at closed throttle. Off idle, lo stall, past 60% throttle, the throttle mounted switch put the converter back to hi stall. That's the way the original system worked. The throttle mounted switch also controlled the kick down.

    I had Bruce configure my control box to put the converter into low stall as soon as I released the brake from a stop. His original brake timer was not adjustable below 3.2 seconds, and the hi stall of the 12" converter was a bit loose for me. Made the car feel lazy in light acceleration. Read my post here,

    https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?t...es-electronic-controller.190075/#post-1663402

    Switchpitch1.jpg
    Switchpitch2.jpg
     
  10. ArcticRyan

    ArcticRyan Well-Known Member

    Thanks Larry!
    This is exactly how my system looks right now.
     
  11. Bigpig455

    Bigpig455 Fastest of the slow....

    try something, just humor me.. Find or borrow a couple big, strong mechanical advance springs, and throw them in. Its a possibilty that the springs in there arent strong enough to return the weights fully to rest at 800 rpm, and your base timing includes more timing than you think. Drop below 800, the weights return,that timing gets pulled, further dragging down idle speed and blah... it stalls. Youll know for sure in 10 minutes and can get back to converter wiring if I'm wrong.
     
    ArcticRyan likes this.
  12. ArcticRyan

    ArcticRyan Well-Known Member

    I am outta town for a bit but I’ll get back to you on this
     
  13. ArcticRyan

    ArcticRyan Well-Known Member

    Ok I got my controller from Bruce Roe to update the old original harness on the Switch Pitch. Works like a charm! I put the car in reverse or drive and idles perfect! Directions are very easy to follow and everything a guy needs to do install is included. Nice product Bruce!
    Ryan
     
    Doug Hoyle, Dadrider and DaWildcat like this.

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