'65 Lesabre disc conversion

Discussion in 'The whoa and the sway.' started by 65BUIK, Apr 19, 2020.

  1. 65BUIK

    65BUIK Member

    Hi all,

    New here, have been lurking for some time and are amazed with the free flowing knowledge that you all have, which i find is awesome.
    I have a question, and after trolling the forum I'm having trouble finding the info.
    I am wanting to convert my drum set up to a Wilwood disc/calipers, however once the axle were removed from the diff I'm a little lost as the car has the factory rear end and apparently nothing has been changed prior to my ownership. There is no markings where the manual states and have read it should be a 8.2" 10 bolt however some data states it could be a 9 3/8 ??
    I've been informed the following, "Final drive ratio in your 8.2” B.O.P is 3.23-1" the axle to flange offset is 2" and the axle bearings have an OD of 2.890”
    Some of this info doesn't appear to match anything Ive read, mainly the offset? Would anyone have seen this before and have an idea if this is common?

    So after contact with Wilwood they can supply a rear assy with Ebrake to fit, however it has a 2.75" offset. The extra width is no issue due to the wheels I have, however I will have to get longer axles, approx 0.75", is there an off the shelf axle that would fit? Also the bearings, this size sounds like an odd one and is not common, are these only avail NOS?

    Regarding the front conversion, due to the "knuckles" being from the (65) and the 67-71 Drum Riviera's, (from the parts book) Wilwood have no off the shelf mounting, which is fine as manufacturing these is not an issue, however I would like to widen the track (due to the wheel offset) so does anyone have an idea of what hub would fit and move the wheel flange out approx 0.75-1.0" per side?

    Thanks for any and all assistance.
    Brian
     
  2. racenu

    racenu Well-Known Member

  3. 65BUIK

    65BUIK Member

    Hi racenu and thanks for the reply,

    After pulling the diff down and measuring all, it looks like I can fit the BOP rear kit from Wilwood, with some changes. I'm machining some collars to fit the RW507CR bearings as the AR appear quite rare and are very expensive. Also due to the offset currently being 2.000" I am looking at getting longer axles made, this will satisfy the offset issue (2.75") fit the Wilwood rotor centers and assist with the rear wheel spacers currently used. Wheels are zero offset (17x10) and require to move out to fit the guards correctly.

    Please see photos which may identify the the diff installed.

    Regarding the front, currently working on this however it looks like Baer rotors 13x1.10 on OEM hubs with shallow offset, then Wilwood FNSL6 calipers on my own engineered mounts.

    Here in NZ the laws are extremely strict on vehicle modifications so everything has to be certified prior to being used.
     

    Attached Files:

    knucklebusted likes this.
  4. 65BUIK

    65BUIK Member

    Hi all,

    Just an update for those that maybe interested. Its been a while and has taken longer than thought as my business is busy.
    Finished the rear conversion, collars machined with new later bearings fitted, longer axles manufactured and the 12inch Wilwoods fitted. Already to install. Pretty happy with outcome so hope it drives ok.

    Now we're working on the 13inch front install, decided on the Chevy C10 kit from Wilwood as it contained the correct fitting hubs, 5x5 and increased track. Only have to manufacture the radial caliper mounts.

    IMG-20201004-WA0001.jpg IMG-20201004-WA0004.jpg IMG-20201004-WA0005.jpg IMG-20201004-WA0007.jpg
     
    6769RIV and knucklebusted like this.
  5. 65BUIK

    65BUIK Member

    Another update as the rear is installed and all fits well. Wheels are currently 17 x 10's (zero offset) with 275 tires and they fit exactly in the middle of the std wheel tubs. The 12" rotors and calipers have plenty of clearance which should work well with the 13" rotors for the front.

    20210101_141719.jpg 20210101_141729.jpg 20210101_141736.jpg 20210101_142230.jpg
     
    68ElectraCustom and 6769RIV like this.
  6. Max Damage

    Max Damage I'm working on it!

    Thats going to be a dramatic improvement braking!
     
  7. buicksWILD

    buicksWILD Well-Known Member

    You have front and rear ridetech bag kit? Hows it ride?
     
  8. 65BUIK

    65BUIK Member

    Yes I'm hoping so, as had some issues with stopping the car with the Drums and that was after a full rebuild with what was suggested "the best" linings. The Drum kit is now sitting idle on the shelf, maybe retro into my '66 Pontiac, however it may have as good fitted stock.
     
  9. 65BUIK

    65BUIK Member

    Yes you're correct, the Ridetech kit is fitted, it was done a few years ago so an early version. Had a few minor fitment issues with both front and rear however they are on and ride really well. I have set at std OEM ride height for driving, appears good. Also have the convenience of sitting it on the rails once parked, to help prevent ever being stolen.
     
    68ElectraCustom and buicksWILD like this.
  10. 65BUIK

    65BUIK Member

    Hi all, so finally have the front brake install completed. This disc conversion has been in the making for sometime due to work commitments and this COVID 'thing' however its finally completed and certified. (a requirement here in NZ due to not OEM)
    So the Rear was completed on the BOP diff which required longer axles to be manufactured as the Wilwood kit doesn't just bolt on. This opened the opportunity to change the near obsolete axle bearings out to the more modern and common sized items, through a manufactured sleeve.
    The front was then changed out, again a Wilwood off the shelf kit including a 6 pot radial mounted calipers, which included the hub. The hub was required as to fit the correct offset wheels, widen the track and negate spacers (illegal in NZ over a certain size). As I'm currently using 17" wheels I went for the largest disc to fit, due to going to 20" later, the 13.06" x 1.25. Had to manufacture the 1 piece mount for the caliper, machine the stub axle top bolt stub slightly and the OEM turn stops to get it all to work. Tied it in with the Wilwood dual master and prop valve and the heavy 'B Body' now stops on a dime and will do it time and time again.

    Its been an effort with a lot of though, engineering and cost involved, due to our (NZ) strict regulations, however its makes the car amazing, in both performance and looks.

    20220521_153338.jpg 20220521_153423.jpg 20220521_153406.jpg 20220521_153413.jpg 20220414_151123.jpg
     

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