Re: Pictures What year, pre 68? My 69 is a push in, that one looks bolt in? Been awhile, everything good? Rich
that linkage is 70 to 72... shifter looks like an normal comp plus body... handle looks like a 5335 but a bolt on....:idea2: nice work....:beers2:
the HANDLES are 5335 that have been rechromed. We have a limited amount of HANDLES, and only a few original shifters. The rest will be drilled for the repro competition plus shifters. The linkage is also available.
Tried calling you Sat? Anyhow, I really only need a handle. I have an extra shifter body and a handle that needs work. I'll try getting in touch with you again today. Thanks, Rich
I have been working on my car on and off for the past 5 years and the body is at Nick's shop at Ivyland Collision in Warminster Pa for paint and the chassis and engine/tranny combo are complete in my garage. (I can see the finish line!!) Today I received the holy grail of shifter handles from Dave Kliener and I'm doing the happy dance. It's an original handle that I have been waiting a long time for and it's rechromed to perfection and I am totally psyched. Dave has assisted in my quest for a complete 4 speed conversion and I'm just about complete now that I have the handle. I purchased a brand new transmission and all respective shifter linkage, pedals, belhousing, Z-bar, bushings, installation instruction sheet, illustration and everything else to complete the transformation. I'm the guy who purchased the (mint) shifter boot on e-bay for 500 bucks as my intent is to have the best of the best in parts for a good showing and I consider myself a perfectionist to an unhealthy extent with this car. (My wife thinks I lost it putting this kind of $$ in a car for a $15 trophy) A few nights ago I got under the chassis and noticed a 1/4" crack around the inspection hole of the bell housing. I was concerned because I knew the crack was there when I installed it, but it did not appear to be significant, however, it seemed to get worse as I stared at it. A few of my friends looked at it and thought it was nothing superficial - but I lost sleep over it. The way I see it I spent all this $$ and the concern was the crack was there, I knew it, and it screamed at me each time I looked at it. I called Dave and explained the situation and he told me to pull the belhousing and send it back for a swap out as he had one ready on the shelf, that simple. Dave stood behind his product and without hesitation handled my problem like a true professional. Trust me when I tell you Ive learned a lot as a result of the many mistakes made during this restoration and I've met some pretty shady characters and not many people do this without a hassle. I thought I'd share this with everyone as I am pleasantly impressed with not only Dave's product, but his knowledge and dedication to this hobby. You don't typically hear much from Dave as I get the impression he doesn't like to be in the forefront but when your stuck with a problem and need a question answered, he always seems to have the correct answers. Again, just thought I'd share the experience. Mike NJ
Re: Pictures That is my brand new Shifter body and handle I just bought from Dave Kliener. Dave called me on Monday telling me that he had just test fitted it all on Test Mule Muncie case. It has a bolt on handle modification so I can use Brand New Shifter body for precise no slop shifting.
Heads up The mailman just delivered my shifter ball that I ordered from Thornton Reproductions in Quakertown Pa (610-282-2494). They specialize in restoring Oldsmobile 442's and turn out some nice work. The website price for a non console knob with the "H" embossed was originally $28.95 and when I called I was given a discount of $10.95 as I was told the owner wants to move inventory. Total cost w/ shipping to the door - $22.60 here in north Jersey. QUESTION - The ball is fine threaded to match the handle. The question I have is how to align the "H" pattern straight when installed in the car? Do I screw a retaining nut onto the handle and then screw the ball on? It appears the knob has a recessed nut molded into it and by tightening a retaining nut under the ball it would mar the crap out of the underside of it. See the pictures to get a better idea what I'm talking about. Any suggestions? Mike NJ
There is a specific retaining nut for hurst balls and they lock the ball where you want. I amn guessing that they are called ferrule nuts?
