So Jim, you mean if you are converting from an auto to a manual, you have to change the rear axle ratio? :3gears: :3gears: :3gears: Anthony
yes you can use them in a buick :Brow: the trans's are the easy part to get :bglasses: the clutch stuff is the hard stuff to get uzzled: :ball: :shock: ebay search : muncie 4 speed
I think the discussion was that the gear ratios in the M22 trans itself were best for a high reving small block. I have not looked for the posts but they were quite interesting. There are some really sharpe drag racers on this Board.
Ok, thanks Jim. I want to find all of this out because I might buy a 72 Skylark in a few years, and put a 4-speed in it. Anthony
I did about 80% of the 4 speed conversion this weekend. The Easy: 1. Dropping out the T400 2. Cutting the floor, especially when you have a donor car floor as a template... :laugh: 3. Putting in the flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch. 4. Mounting the pedals and linkage The Hard: 1. Drilling the crank for the conversion pilot bearing. Thank GOD my buddy has a precision drill jig. Otherwise, this would be impossible! 2. Getting the *&%$# Muncie to seat into the bellhousing completely 3. Cleaning up the mess afterwards.... :rant: Other tips: Auto cars do not the clips for the back up light switch. There are 2 square holes that these clips go into. The only place I have seen them is on a standard shift car.
Is there anyway you guys could send me some pics of the cut out in the floor for the stick shift, and the dimensions of the cutout? I need to do that soon here on my car, thanks.
what flywheels are you guys doing the changeover using?where did you guys buy the flywheel and bellhousing bolts from? Thanks
If you guys are sticklers for detail on bolts, try McMaster-Carr. They sell the black oxide flange bolts that GM used for about $5 per box of 25.
PaulGS, Your crank wasnt already drilled for a pilot bearing? We have had previous conversations here and the consensous was all BBB cranks were drilled for the pilot bearing from the factory. I remember a case of a crank not being cleaned up enough to accept the pilot bearing but it was drilled. Can you give us some details on the year of the crank? Possibly a late year crank after factory 4 speeds were no longer availabale. Just started my swap last evening, only about an hour and a half into it, pedals removed, firewall plate removed and new parts painted. I was fairly comfortable I had it all thought out, expected a problem or two, but not the crank not being drilled.
Flywheel Bolts George, the factory GM bolts work fine but if you buy a new flywheel from T/A Performance check the clearance between the flywheel bolts and the dampener springs on on the clutch disc before installation. The T/A flywheel is not indexed as deep on the aftermarket as the OEM one. I had to grind a little off the heads of the flywheel bolts for clearance. AL.
Buick 4-Speed I can speak for Scott, I bought one of his cars and the purest can't believe the attention to detail! :TU: :3gears: AL.
Yikes !!! ARP bolts are like 20 bucks . They are an upgrage and are a better bolt . "New" factory bolts would be ok I guess but dont use 30 year old bolts on something as vital as a flywheel and a pressure plate. That , in combination with a cast bellhousing is scary but thats just me. I have a Lakewood in my car... Good luck George in DC
LOOKS GREAT. IS that a factory shifter?? And factory tach?? And I'm just wondering.... does anyone make new in-dash tachs for the Gran Sports??? Anthony
Hi,does anyone know what size and thread the 400-455 flywheel,pressure plate and bellhousing bolts are? Thanks
4-Speed Question Anthony, as far as I know the shifter is correct, and the tachometer is a after market. Scott Miller found me a correct original that I have not installed yet. The other part that is incorrect is the speedometer (PRNDSL) and I was at a large Pa. car show and found a perfect manual transmission speedometer for $25.00!!! :eek2: After I get my cluster restored I'll install the correct parts. AL :beer
