Now to find a place to fit the power steering pump and alternator . The pump was the original Toyota unit and the alternator I chose due to its very small size and output at 50amps was perfect for my limited space. I drew up and fabricated a bracket to dual mount both units on the L/H cylinder head. I also had to cut the water pump pulley down and weld the hub back on to it so as to just run 1 belt. I used the shortest pump available, the Aitex AW855, to gain enough clearance between the radiator and pump pulley. The radiator I chose the largest I could fit in the space available. It's an aluminium 3 core with core size 22 3/4" x 20 1/2" x 2" if this doesn't do the job I will have to fit a sub rad somewhere under the vehicle. There was no room for the fans between the waterpump and the rad so I used 2 flat blade 80 watt 10" diameter fans between the grill and in front of the rad to blow cold air through. The flat blade fans according to the info are supposed to be as efficient pushing air as pulling it. Both fans are controlled by dual temp switch turning the 1st fan on at 199F and off again at 190F and the 2nd fan on at 207F and of at 198F. It does seem ok sitting in traffic, the 1st fan is on permanently and the 2nd cuts in and out. Driving at speeds above 15mph both fans turn off and the temp gauge on the dash starts to lower. Driving at speed the temperature remains constant so looks like I will not require a sub rad.
Getting a nice smooth throttle connection from the accelerator pedal to the carb was a straight forward fix. Here in England the pedal is on the R /H side of the vehicle but the lever on the carb is on the left side. I opted to use the standard toyota cable and drew up and made a quadrant and used two 3/16 spherical joints, one on each end of a rod linking the quadrant to the lever controlling the throttle blades on the carb. I used a torsional spring around the quadrant pivot shaft to return the throttle to the closed position. To filter the air for the engine I found a nice Mercedes 450sl v8 steel housing from the 70s with a snout that went right down to the front of the grill to get some good cold air to the carb. The tube that mates the filter housing to the carb was the correct diameter but needed cutting out and moving back 1 1/2" to move the filter housing forward to give clearance at the fire wall. A brkt with a rubber cush mount was added on the opposite side to the snout on the housing and bolted to a spare hole on the inlet manifold to gain some mounting stability.
This is awesome I actually came across 2 first gen Yotas with a Buick 350 swapped in.. One like a decade ago(didn't have $$$) Other time was maybe a year ago(bed hacked up for shock cross member) i jad the $$ for this one, but needed a family oriented ride... So, really love this thread...go marlin crawler on everything suspension if its 4WD
Thanks Nothingface 5384. It is 4 WD . I'm not going of road.I have left the rear dampers and leaf spring std. But up front gone with uprated front leaf spring. Regarding dampers I have made some cantilever top mounts that bolt to the original dampers towers and used some revalved kawasaki KXF 250 Showa motor X bike rear units .Having removed the coil spring and making new mounting eye for the shaft end. I now have compression and rebound damping and no seal drag and a smooth ride in the cab.
This whole thread is great! It reminds me that I used to ponder swapping a turbo Buick 3.8 into my 1982 Celica, before I got rear ended and the car totaled! Now that I just bought another one, I'm planning on doing some things to the Toyota 22R, but if I ever do swap the engine a Buick could be fun
Hi, Neat project, one area of concern would be the strength of the Toyota trans, as not rated for a bunch of power, a R version is the strongest second w59. Also years ago advance adapter use to offer a bell housing to mate a 231 Buick to a Toyota transmission, not sure what starter it used, original Toyota or GM? Very nice work, been eyeing a extra 300 for my 1980 Toyota, although going to a V8 might consider a NV4500 Regards, Jim
Hi Jim I junked the G52 box that was the original for the truck and went with the Toyota R151F gearbox from a Kdn165 pickup . Like you said the R boxes are the strongest toyota do. I got the complete unit with 4W/D and transfer box pulled straight out of another scrap truck. Using the R box I new I would have no prop shaft issues and the shifter levers we're in the correct place to even use the standard gator for the stick shift and not have to modify the tunnel in the floor. With the truck being light weight ,I think probably the diffs will be the week point for me.I don't haul anything in it and only use it on the Highway so all I can do is see how it lasts.
Hi again, Didn't notice if this is a straight axle or IFS, but have seen people drag race Toyota pickups with such in them with stock diffs.. the 8" Toyota is fairly robust for the vehicle weight, if you can find 2 rear diffs from a early 90's 4runnere with a v6 and factory 31's is a cheap way to get 4.88's for a straight axle truck. 4.10's are usually stock gear ratio, early 80's with a 4 speed or automatics got 4.37's or 4.30's Regards, Jim
Hi Jim Had a look into that ,the v6 over your side of the pond had 3.7 to 1 that was 11 /41 on the teeth we didn't get any of those over here only 2.4 diesel and 2.0 petrol both 4 cylinder. I'm running the std 4.56 to1 for the diesel engine and that comes out at 75mph at 3000rpm so I think going to the 3.7 would be good move dropping the rpm to 2500 for the same speed and giving me 15% better fuel economy. The engine has so much toque 1st gear is redundant at the moment .
Hi again, Yeah all depends upon use, rock crawling or mud and even deep sand you want lots of torque and or wheel spin. Didn't realize you were in the US but either way should be a fun project Cheers, Jim
