231 > 350 SWAP - COMPLETE Specialty swap (Fixed - Cranking issue / Turning over) - Built from Block

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by Orlando M, Jul 8, 2020.

  1. Orlando M

    Orlando M I’ve got something to prove and something to lose.

    Do I need this in particular also? The car was not equipped with this. But was unsure if needed for the 350 load.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    You have a coil, it's inside the cap.
     
    Orlando M likes this.
  3. Orlando M

    Orlando M I’ve got something to prove and something to lose.

    Went to AutoZone to have the alternator and battery. First volt check, 11.99.

    Battery good, alternator, FAILED. Bought a new one. Waiting for battery to charge. More than likely the problem.
     
  4. Orlando M

    Orlando M I’ve got something to prove and something to lose.

    Latest Update: So i tested everything out from the distributor to all starting/ignition parts and issues, Everything comes back with normal readings. Still no spark however. I figured it would have something to do with my tach not being installed and connected to the dist, but it still gets no spark. I can say that there was a green wire coming from the dist. even though there was never a tach in the car. I wired all the gauges up this morning. I have a feeling its electrical or something with everything panning out with good readings unless its timing. Only issue i can think of otherwise would be that the timing should be at the 16 rather than being on 6~0 degrees on initial timing (which is where i have been setting the timing mark). The final result will be to get it towed to the shop to have a full diagnostic because this no spark should been this hard if everything is turning out A1. I've done TDC to the #1 on the rotor cap and tried pointing #1 on the cylinder and and it still simply cranks, no spark to ignite. Everything else has been replaced that has to with starting over the past 10-15 days so its all brand new. I can think of anything else other than timing. :(
     
  5. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Defective HEI distributor. If it is getting power, it should make spark. It has nothing to do with timing. Even if the timing was out a lot, it should still make spark.
     
    Orlando M likes this.
  6. Orlando M

    Orlando M I’ve got something to prove and something to lose.

    That’s what I figured. It just cranks as if it wants to turn over and the distributor is spinning, but I’m sitting here like why is voltage good but it’s not sparking... the one I have is from Top Street Performance. Should I look into getting one from TA or is that the same as the JM6524 distributor?
     
  7. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    You should contact Top Street Performance and see what they will do for you.
     
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Orlando M likes this.
  9. Orlando M

    Orlando M I’ve got something to prove and something to lose.

    Ran through the diagnostics and got to step 3. Said it could be the rotor, cap, or spark plug wires. I don’t think that it could be the rotor or the cap, because it’s all turned out to work on the distributor but when is pro test the wires I get no spark.. I got spark from the coil. I got a feeling of the wires because they are so year specific and I had to pick a year at AZ or Oreillys for them to search. I was wondering if I got the wrong wires.? I went with a 75 skylark for them to search.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2020
  10. 1987Regal

    1987Regal Well-Known Member

    When I needed a coil 3.5 hrs from home the Chevy hei coil with red, yellow,black wires worked fine from O'Reilly's. I'm not too sure what the difference is between the yellow wire and white wire coils
     
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    The only thing specific about wires is their individual lengths to fit different size engines and their spark plug layout. Getting the wrong set wouldn't cause no spark, some of the wires would be too short or too long, that's all. If you are getting spark at the coil, but not at the plugs, look at the rotor.
     
  12. Orlando M

    Orlando M I’ve got something to prove and something to lose.


    Ok. I was thinking that if its getting spark at the coil them why isn't the spark getting to the rotor while spinning. I know the cap is clean so I know there's oh so many options now with it actually having a spark.
     
  13. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    The center tang of the rotor conducts the spark energy from the center coil button to the rotor tip, and then to each contact in the cap to the respective plug wire. The GM HEI rotor should look like this,

    https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41QOsByZkDL._AC_.jpg
     
  14. Orlando M

    Orlando M I’ve got something to prove and something to lose.


    It looks exactly like that. How would I know if its faulty if its new? everything looks like the pic which is new but just a diff color cap.
     
  15. 1987Regal

    1987Regal Well-Known Member

  16. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    How did you check for spark? What makes you sure it's not just out of time?
     
  17. Orlando M

    Orlando M I’ve got something to prove and something to lose.


    I checked further on with some steps of the diagnostic just cause. I tested the carbon button out, it gets spark from both the ignition module via test light and thru the BAT cable so the coil is good for sure. Looked at the cap and see some cracks, could be issue, unsure. The rotor looks perfectly fine but of course it’s barely touched. The wires are new but it has to be one of the 3 from the diagnosis because if it’s gets spark then it says it’s one rotor, cap, or wires. The most labor touched thing has been the cap. I have the pics attached. Lmk what you think. I’m thinking it could be the cap. You can see it on the (2) left side of the connector area.
     

    Attached Files:

  18. 1987Regal

    1987Regal Well-Known Member

    You know being that is a clear cap, put it all back together try cranking it with lights off. see if you can see any sparking or arcing going on
     
  19. Orlando M

    Orlando M I’ve got something to prove and something to lose.

    Yea but the car is outside. There's no spark at the cap mainly. Only other spot I don't get spark is the wires. I have yet to see one coming from the cap at all.
     
  20. 1987Regal

    1987Regal Well-Known Member

    I not sure how you tested for power coming in. But hook it all up but leave the coil cover off and see if you have power the coming through the power wire hooked up. Coil is the male side, the power wire is the female end. sometimes the wire ends get corroded/oxidized causing it not to pass spark through connections. If this checks out good. I really would try a different distributor assembly,
    I have seen in the past electrical components test good but be bad. (I work on Powersports on the side from my day job) I have seen it many times.

    Read through this: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.hotrodders.com/forum/hei-distributor-no-spark-think-i-tried-everything-162332.html?amp=1

    If you have a bad magnet or pick up it will not have spark no matter what
     

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