231 > 350 SWAP - COMPLETE Specialty swap (Fixed - Cranking issue / Turning over) - Built from Block

Ain't my fault no one knows how to put an engine together or work on it.

 

LMAO

 

Update?

 

Waiting on parts. Should get the remainder tomorrow. Then attempt to install Friday morning. UPS comes late round my area.

 

LATEST UPDATE: So I pulled the timing cover off, found nothing but the crankshaft and cam smdh. I can tel this dude was trying to do everything in a rush to be like “ Hey, look what I did so far..” because he had xx:xx time window. I can truly say I did a the majority of work in house myself. Only issue is the car is outside and the weathers been crazy. I have everything placed on and put back on the front end. I’m currently just getting the distributor set in TDC along with connections, reinstall fluids, then attempt to crank again. Hopefully this is the issue since I got it all the way to slow crank with no gears to initiate. But definitely feel like this was the problem with how vital what was needed.

P.S.: The woodruff key was already installed on the build. It’s a long block made to Stock Buick 350 specifications.

 

We are ALL pulling for you to get it running! Keep us posted. Good Luck, Mike

 

Cool. You have keys in both crank & cam I hope.

Looks like you have two washers on cam end. You only need one....

 

Yea there is on in both. It was built with both installed. Everything was installed according to the key ways. And there is only 1 bolt. Its just a thick dimension. It does look like it though lol.

 

Update: I think I possibly have a bad ground. Where is a good place on the 350 to ground??? Trying to find a good spot. I had the batt neg to the body but there’s seems like not enough voltage now. My mechanic said it’s possibly a bad ground if everything is new but I know I never attached the (-) to the body on the v6. It went somewhere to then back of the engine bay.

 

Are you referring to the gold bolt and the braided wire in the 2nd pic as the one to the firewall?

 

I believe the gold bolt is it. Here’s a better view with me taking the adjuster bolt off in the top right corner and moving the ac over.

 

There is also one on the side of the head also

 

X2, I think mine is through the front intake bolt. On grounding figure engine to frame and body to frame. I take it no spark?

 

Yea I have no spark. Tried it today. Got to start cranking so instead of being slow, it attempting to spin on cranking but then it slow down to clunks after about 3 attempts. Turned it TDC and then it still went the same way after trying again. No spark though. My GEN light stays on when I have the ignition on. So I’m going to make sure the battery didn’t weaken because it’s has to be spark or fuel now. But the fuel is not initiating through the engine other than me doing the carb. So I know it’s one or the other. The GEN with that crank has to be something minor since it’s still no spark.

 

Gen light is because alternator rpm is not high enough. That will probably go away when you get engine started. If your getting a clunk, during crank you have timing to high or spark plug wire crossed.

 

Checked my voltage on my Battery, Alt, Starter prior to crank. It was 12.08V across the board. I checked it while ignition is on and its 11.96~.98. When i attempt to crank it, its going downward roughly between 4.8-8.6V. when I stop turning the key (in ACC) , it goes back to 11.96 on the battery and alternator. I was wondering if my starter could be too big or having too much/not enough output. I bought it for a 78 5.7L LeSabre starter but i am wondering if I need the 3.8L starter since most of the 3.8L items bolted on as is. I just figured i needed the 5.7L starter in particular rather than otherwise. Only option I can think of now is giving it an actual jump and seeing if that gives it enough power. But I know that it was 12V all around other than when cranking.

 

No a Buick 350 starter is correct I don't even know if a 3.8 starter will fit. I would check firing order and make sure you have power going to the distributor wire with a test light. charge battery and or jump start it and check what Alec suggested. Also take a spark plug out put it back in the wire and try to spin it and see if it arcs make sure the end touch the block to see if it arc. Or use a spark tester. I wouldn't touch it it might be a shocking experience...lol