1968 350 Freeze Plugs

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by Max Damage, Oct 6, 2020.

  1. Max Damage

    Max Damage I'm working on it!

    So, I was looking under my car today as I am often likely to do and I saw a drip of green Koolaide coming from the driver side of the engine... Right above the Mount.

    I was able to see the forward freeze plug appears dry, but could not see the rear one.

    I am thinking this rear plug is the likely source of the leak, based on the drips I saw.

    Has anyone replaced this left rear plug with the engine in the car? I am thinking I can put the car on stands, and then jack up the front lip the oil pan with a block of wood, and release the left engine mount. I wonder if this will allow me enough room to turn the plug and yank it, and install a new one?

    Thanks in advance for your suggestion, ideas and help.
     
  2. Fox's Den

    Fox's Den 355Xrs

    I don't think so if one is bad the rest are probably not far behind.
     
    Schurkey likes this.
  3. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    Put a 7 lb cap on for the time being.
     
    Max Damage likes this.
  4. DEADMANSCURVE

    DEADMANSCURVE my first word : truck

    be prepared for truly one of the most glamorous projects on the car ownership spectrum .
    greasy bandaids , swearing , junk dripping on your face and then praying it does not leak when ya get all done .
    it's only fun when the motor is out of the car .
     
    patwhac and Max Damage like this.
  5. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    Tap it in a bit more. It'll either stop leaking or leak like a sieve. :D
     
    patwhac likes this.
  6. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    Time to install a block heater....
     
    Dano likes this.
  7. Max Damage

    Max Damage I'm working on it!

    After Del's above description I couldn't resist going after this.

    I am working on the drivers side first, as that's where there is a leak.

    So far I have the car up on blocks in the driveway (wife does not love this) and I have decided that the exhaust manifold will need to come off (to get at the back freeze plug). I have been patiently working on this with a six sided box wrench and a hammer.

    I have a 1/2" breaker bar with a 6 sided socket also, but I think it will be too easy break something.

    I have 4 of the 7 bolts seemingly free, and the other 3 have budged, but aren't free yet. I have been wiggling those and trying to get PB blaster on them... Hoping to get them all out without breaking any, at which point there is no more chance of doing this in the car.

    If I succeed at this, then the engine mount will be next... So far, no great bandaids, and only a couple off small bits of yuck in the face...
     
  8. Fox's Den

    Fox's Den 355Xrs

    The fun really begins when you get crap in your eyes then you hit your head on the frame, .. ouch!
     
    patwhac, Dano, Mart and 1 other person like this.
  9. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Pull the engine, it will be easier.
    While its out, you may as well rebuild it since its right there:D
     
    Schurkey and Dano like this.
  10. Mart

    Mart Gold level member

    Time for some real fun.....headers:D
     
    Max Damage likes this.
  11. pbr400

    pbr400 68GS400

    Here comes the ‘while I’m in here...’
    Soon you’ll be searching the forum for ‘best body mounts’, ‘correct paint for the frame’ and ‘all the clips for the fuel and brake lines’!
    Patrick
     
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  12. Quick Buick

    Quick Buick Arlington Wa

    Your in the driveway... This time of year. AH time of year don't mater It allways The rainy season here in Washington.. Your NUTZ. My buick is the last car to get worked on of fixed in a unheated garage... GOOD luck....

    It really would be much easier to pull the motor....
     
    Max Damage likes this.
  13. Max Damage

    Max Damage I'm working on it!

    I am certainly well aware of how much easier it would be having spent some of the last three days fighting with this. Unfortunately, I have no where to put the engine that is high and dry and clean enough to work on it. If I break a exhaust bolt, I will have to figure something out...
     
  14. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    Lol, & take the front end sheetmetal off & redo the engine compartment. Makes pulling the engine so much easier:).
     
    Mark Demko and Max Damage like this.
  15. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Good point, glad you brought that up:D:D
    May as well leave the trans attached and pull that also, the rebuild that or replace with a killer 6 speed!
    Well if yah do that, may as well swap the rear gear for 4.56
     
    Dano likes this.
  16. Dano

    Dano Platinum Level Contributor

    Now you're thinkin':). Plus those body bushings are surely worn out & then you can get to those old brake & fuel lines.
     
  17. gstewart

    gstewart Well-Known Member

    My Gs cam from the factory with a block heater. A couple of years ago, I have the engine out to replace seals & gaskets, rear main gasket, a rear cam plug. The engine sat on the stand for several days. Never thought to remove the old block heater. Engine back in the car, road tested. I see a leak. Guess from where? The block heater as the old seal had dried and leaked. It was a pain in the ass trying to install a new frost plug as there was very little room to maneuver, but I got it. Word to the wise - r/r the block heater when the engine is out of the car.
     
  18. Jim Blackwood

    Jim Blackwood Well-Known Member

    This all started because of some antifreeze seepage that could just as well have been the head gasket? And now I guess the front end of the car looks like a bomb went off. Too bad about that, when re-torquing the heads and a bottle of sealant might have done the trick. But hey, long as it's apart... maybe new body cushions too, and then sandblast and epoxy paint the frame, and...
     
  19. Quick Buick

    Quick Buick Arlington Wa

    Max.... Is the cap leaking or is it drip???? Hopefully your not to far into the miserable project.... If you have NO broken bolts.. I would assemble back to before you put it on the ramps... try http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5574933636&toolid=10001&campid=5336728181&customid=&mpre=https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-GM-ACDelco-Coolant-System-Sealing-Tabs-12378255-/282234411563. Even if its leaking... Give these a try first..... I keep a package pined on the wall in plain sight.... Out of sight out of mind...

    Put 2 tabs in a freezer bag or double bag. Bust them up wit a hammer.. Repeat 4 tabs is what I used last time needed when the water pump gasket sprung a leek....
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2021

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