i have a carter AFB on this motor which i just got going after many years of sitting. gas started leaking out from around the butterfly rods onto the manifold and other places. the motor flooded out and stopped running after its initial start up. i remove the carb and took the top off. one float was not working and there was particles (crap) floating around with what gas was left in it. i am wondering if i ought to rebuild or get a reman carter ($110) exchange or get another type carb ? thanks for any advice. 67 lesabre convertable 340-4 carter AFB 15 degree 289 (stamped on butterfly) 1731 F7D43315 1855 paul
Carter AFBs are easy to work on...I would get a kit and do it yourself. The main problem is all the crap being pumped to the carb. The needles and seats can't control the fuel level if they can't seat. The fuel system (tank and lines) need cleaning and filters installed/replaced. Happy motoring, Frank
rebuild thanks for the info frank. tryed to get a rebuild kit from napa but they dont carry. do rebuild kits differ in quality ? can you recommend one ? postons has a kit for the 9000 series AFB any idea if this will take care of my AFB 4331 ? any problem putting one of those see through filters both before the fuel pump and after the fuel pump ? thanks paul
I just got back...The kit for the later 9000 series won't work for your 4331 as the bowl cover gasket and accelerator pump are different. I'm surprised NAPA can't help you, but Car Quest lists kit 283D for the 4331, same number for the HyGrade that a lot of parts stores handle. Possibly just cleaning yours will work. Filters...the glass style trap everything, even fine stuff that wouldn't hurt. Some mechanics don't like them because of the glass breakage possibility. A good normal filter at the carb should do it. Happy motoring, Frank
rebuild kit thanks for the info. need a rebuild kit cause a gasket tore when i took the top off. thanks again paul
float hinge pin ? got another question- i am ready to take the carb apart to clean but i am wondering how to get the float hinge pin out ? it wont turn easily and it does not look like it pushes out ? but it must either turn or push out i would think !! any help on how to take these pins out the right way ? please. thanks paul
The hinge pins are a slip fit in the top casting and come out either side...they must be varnished up and stuck. Take some lacquer thinner or a thin penetrating oil and clean/soak them, then use a pin punch and tap them GENTLY back and forth. Don't try turning them or the pliers will gouge the pin and then it won't pass through the housing legs. Damn the torpedoes...full speed ahead!!! Frank
proper gasket ? i have a reman. carter AFB it came with one gasket - a thin 4 holer. my old gasket was actually two gaskets - neither of which looks like the one that came with the reman carb (which is a carter AFB ). should i just go ahead and use the provided gasket ? as frank says -dam the torpedoes - full steam ahead>>>> thANKS paul
Look at the bases on the carbs and verify that the gasket will seal and not leave any vacuum leaks. If your original will do that, and is in good shape I would use it. Good luck, Frank
gasket thanks for the info frank. so it is correct to have two gaskets for my 340-4 ? i cannot reuse the ones that were on the car as i think they are old and compressed. i tryed to reuse and gas leaked from the gasket area and the motor flooded out. my local auto parts store (advance auto) shows a felpro gasket that is identical to one of the originals i had on the car. they say i need two gaskets for my car. the gasket that came with the reman carb does not have the cross over channel. i called the manufacterer... they said the carb is for many applications...blahblah. thanks i have ordered two felpro gaskets from adv.auto. should i use two ? and any idea why i would need two ? oh yeh... my original carb had a stubborn jet that unfortunately the screw slot stripped on me. that is why i got the reman. carb. thanks paul :3gears:
If there is an exhaust crossover channel on your manifold there should be a gasket, then a sheet metal plate (to cover the channel), then the second gasket. Direct exposure to the exhaust heat is too much for the aluminum AFBs, but seemed to be OK with a Rochester carb (iron base). Many of these plates were discarded over the years by unknowing mechanics. Without the plate the fuel can "boil" in high engine heat conditions, causing a too rich mixture. You are in Florida, and probably don't even need heat to the carb base as there isn't much freezing weather to cause carburetor icing. Frank p.s. I made up a thick bladed screw driver to fit the slot in the jets. This really helps; and for stubborn jets use a flat nosed 5/16 dia punch and smack the jet. This "coins" the area below the jet, relieving some pressure. I learned these tricks after screwing up several jets. Frank
the plate thanks frank - i am beginning to get the picture. there is the cross over gasket - then the plate then another cross over gasket- i take it the plate also is a cross over ! there is no plate on my motor - so someone tossed it at sometime or other. this is really good to know because the chassis service manual and the carb rebuild kit (sorenson) sheet both do not mention this plate. also the reman. carb (champion in tenn.)people do not show this item. my next question is what is a poor boy todo... is this some thing that has to be frabricated or are these avalilable ? thanks paul
I've heard the plate is available, but I do not recall the source. Mr. Gasket (performance stuff) makes a "Heat isolator kit", but it has a lot more plates than you need (aluminum). It is possible to fabricate one, or maybe someone in the group knows a source and will chime in. Wish I could help more. Good luck, Frank
