One of my least favorite jobs to do on one of these cars...so I figured I would record myself fumbling through for the world to see. Hopefully, it helps someone out.
Thanks Adam You have just saved me a gob of time doing my dad’s limited! Awesome video keep keeping your mistakes in. Makes it VERY real
Although Chevs are similar they are easier to do than a Buick. AND, Chevs did not have a panhard rod or torque bars like Buick had so they wallow around more. Last for Chev torque tube was '54. Start of open drive was '55. Buick used the torque tube set-up for ride & handling purposes over open drive & it was a built in traction bar set-up also. I've done things a little bit diff. than Adam although the results were basically the same. I remember when I was going to a tech school back in the 60's I had to do a clutch in my '55 Special. The teacher wouldn't let me use the drive on lift as he thought I would be using the lift more than 1 day so I had to do it in the steam cleaning room. After I got it jacked up high enough & on jack stands & he came to inspect it to make sure it was safe & sturdy. I went about taking it apart. An hour later I asked him if he could road test it. He didn't believe I was done in an hour until I showed him the used/worn parts. After that he talked about it for weeks & to this day he still don't believe I was able to do it so quickly. I had LOTS of experience pulling that 5 bolt top cover trans. with the "Glass" gears repairing it that he didn't know about. Tom T.
Subscribed.. I never worked on a torque tube style shaft. Just what does the drive shaft?? look like thats in the tube?
Yes. Female splines to mate up to the pumpkin. Male splines to mate to the torque ball at the trans. Giant paint in the ass to put together.
Helped big time watching your replacement torque ball video to make out the male and female ends. I can imagine the how much of a pain in the ass it is but you do make it look easy Why this annoying setup instead of a regular drive shaft? because of the dynaflow?
Because you have to dick with the entire rear end to replace a rear trans seal. When with just a driveshaft, all you have to do is pull the U joint straps on the rear yoke to pull the driveshaft out of the trans and replace the seal. The torque ball setup is notorious for leaking, too...so it's almost a given that if you buy one of these cars, you'll have to replace the seal...and more.
Not because of the dynaflow, but dynaflow used because a step-gear transmission would be too harsh at every shift. Rebuilt components of a torque tube will last much longer than components of an open driveshaft. In over 150K miles I have not had to re-do anything on mine. In addition working on one is no different than anything else: turn wrenches to the left, replace parts, turn wrenches to the right. Performance: there is no axle wrap and wheel hop when accelerating; a high speed blowout on a rear tire is just an aggravation compared to leaf springs that result in the axle steering the car.
Nice info.. I would really need to see one in person to understand the whole layout. Diagrams help a bit though. I would guess there is a trade off for a smooth, a bit safer ride with a good amount of power loss from the flywheel back?
