So far I have run a best of 12.2 at 111 mph with a 1.75 60' time. This was while leaving off hi idle, not bringing the car up on the converter. When I tried leaving on the converter my 60' went into the 2 second range. Currently in the back I am running stock upper links with new bushings, adjustable tubular lower links, rear adjustable drag shocks, eibach lowering rear springs, no rear sway bar. The front is all stock with factory swaybar. I have MT ET street rear tires. I haven't checked or adjusted the pinion angle yet, I assume that I can with the adjustbale lower arms. I still have the stock rear springs for the car if it would be advantagous to reinstall them. I would appreciate any suggestions on what I need to add or remove from this setup, or basic settings that I should look at before I head back out to the track. I know that the car was spinning off the line the last time I ran it, but afterwards I realized that the tire pressure was too low after observing my marks on the pavement.
If it was me I would do three things. 1. Remove the front sway bar so the front end would rise more (better weight transfer). 2. Check and adjust pinion angle if required. 3. Put the rear sway bar back on and maybe use a airbag in the right rear to pre-load it some.
A factory sway bar should work just fine for you. Thats all I run on my Regal and it has gone 6.73 @ 101.90mph in the 1/8th mile. Although I'm not crazy about them anymore (waiting for them to wear out) I also run ET street tires (30X13.50X15) and they work.
Here's my set-up: No front sway bar, Moroso front springs and 90/10 front shocks. In the rear, HR PartsnStuff's rear bar, adjustable upper control arms, 1/4" longer lower control arms, stock rear springs and shocks, and 2 airbags with minimal pressure to tweak the ride height. Tires are MT ET radials, 275-60-15. I bought HR's entire rear kit, including the pinion angle gauge, upper control arm wrench and the bushing tool for the upper control arm bushings in the differential housing. I've only made 2 passes so far, and the second one was leaving at 2000 rpm, which resulted in a 1.6 60' time and a 11.60 ET. I had no tire spin, and I know there is more left if I leave harder. The only regrets I have with the HR parts stuff is not purchasing the entire kit sooner! (no, I have no affiliations with them other than satisfied customer!)
Wow, that anti roll bar looks like a great part, and very effective. I guess I better save my pennies.
Here's my set-up; stock front sway bar, stock 350 springs, comp eng, 80/20 shocks. 350 trans, tight Coan 3200, holding the brake hard at 2000 at the tree, ( I have a ATI 3700 going in soon ). The rear has stock boxed lowers, custom uppers I built with adj. 3/4 hiems, set pinion angle at -3 and stock sway bar, stock springs, M/T ET streets tires with air bags, L at 5-8 lbs and R. at 15-18 lbs, shocks are old set of lakewood 50/50, these shocks do not work any better than my Monroe gas-matic shocks I used years ago, the Monroes let me use less air in the bags because they were a little more stiff, freed up the rear for quicker movement. When the new converter go;s in that will be a new headache. You have to remember that everybodys torque & horsepower ratings & converter, rear gears, play a big part in how each others suspension will work. The car 60' at 1.63 to 1.66, BEST:11.63 at 115 mph
Our set up: No front sway bar 90/10's on front Rear sway bar Rear bags, 5lb driver side, 15-18 on passenger 12.5" MT pro's with 14lbs air Only running 12's now with throttle stop and stock converter. No tire spin.
My setup in the back is boxed lower control arms, adj. uppers with pinion angle set to -4 degrees (it's a lot more than stock). I have an oversized rear and front sway bar, Edelbrock IAS shocks all around. I also have air bags in the rear with driver's side at about 7 lbs. and pass. side at around 15 lbs. at the track. Tires are 26x10 ET drags.
