www.google.com/search?q=ring+gear+pattern&oq=ring+gear&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j35i39j5j0.4316j0j4&client=ms-android-verizon&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=Z6QDYfE7Kuu-FM: 3rd line down I don't have my charts from my shop in front of me but this site shows a very close match to how I see the pattern.... To me his pattern look to hitting toward the toe on the coas side and on the heel of the drive side, but appears to be pretty well centered between the face and flank.
We hardly ever worry about the toe to heel - it is the peak to valley swipe that is all important. shallow or deep you really almost can not control the toe to heel when you get your depth correct. and since these are used gears you will have to tolerate quote a bit of pattern quality. Used gears will usually have to rely on experience of what you have seen in the past and how they have come out in the end. I personally like to throw compound onto old gears that are removed from drive in cars and see what is acceptable after years of driving and the car is quiet. Plus seeing patterns on gears that make noise on the coast or the drive side ...this is how you get experience in the real world repair work. Picture patterns are great for basic NEW installs but the used stuff is alot tougher and a wider gray area of acceptable patterns. So this pattern will NEVER look like the new pattern examples your trying to get. I just wanted to see where you were looking or your experience with the diff patterns. if you look at the down loaded picture from your link look at E and F that is more where his pattern is and it is a bit deep requiring less shim under the pinion bearing. C and D is too shallow and would require more shim to get the pattern to hit more in the center of the tooth. Hope this helps understand where this pattern has to go. BUT being used this may be the best you can get as we do not know the FULL life of the ring and pinion set and may have had a bit more backlash than was correct spec (.011 ish) and wore like this for some time ...and still could have been a quite runner until 10K more miles, then start making noise... all hard to see the past... Good luck guys, just always trying to help you understand how and what were all looking for. Jim J D
The chart I posted is just one I found online, im not in my shop where I have all my good ones I've used for years. But, and this is just my opinion and thoughts, I think his pattern looked alot better in all areas when the 35 was in there. Just based on his posted pictures. The current setup is under 35, hince why I also said I think a few more, I feel his pattern with more in it looks better. I don't claim to rear end expect or do this everyday, even though i have set up several hundred with very littlr complaints. I'm sure there are alot more ppl with alot more info than me. I don't think the current pattern will cause much issues, and agree that pattern on used gears are hard to set, hard to read, and hard to match.
Those gears,when new,would have showed a slightly different pattern as the ideal or acceptable. You are now trying to get a desirable used pattern,and what you have now,on the drive side,looks common,for a good used set. The coast side is getting real close.Maybe as good as it gets,but it did spread the pattern out a little better,with this last setting.
Hi Please help. Need correct part number for "joint clamps" for Buick 1970 gs 455. The rear axle are 8.2 10 bolt c-clip chevelle axle, with conversion joint. I bougth some clamps, but none of them wil fit. Please see attached photos. I try to use the MOG 437-0 clamps, and the bolts was to small, i machined up the holes and used bigger bolts with no luck, you see the problem when you see the pictures.
The resr axle are in the car now. Silent snd no problem Thanks for all help from all of you, and quality parts from JDRACE.com
I have a question... What made you think that was going to fit a CHEVY rear when in the application on their website says not one Chevy vehicle.... Jerep, Ford, chrysler, Mercury, izusu etc... NOT chevy??? The internet is your best and worst friend when you do not use it correctly The Summit part you need is ADO-45U0503 this is for the 1.063 bearing cap...long bolts... 12 bolt chevy uses the same straps also from 1970-1972 and the 12 bolt chevy 1/2 ton ton again uses the same straps up till 1982. rear end only J D RAce Jim Mitschke
Welll. The 530-10 says Chevy from 1964 to 2010. I got some straps from a friend that vere correct, so trouble solved. Thanks for all help
530-10 is for 10 bolt 8.5 rears...totally not right. Can not help much more. you just have to do your home work you need cup size of 1.063 not 1.125 which is the mechanic 3R joint
Hi The rear axle are now in the car. No noise, sounds perfect. 3:08 is a great ratio for this car. Thanks to all of you for the help. Please tell me: When do i need to replace the gear oil ? Thanks Eivind
Always glad to hear GOOD things. You did great in dealing with all of us too Gear oil on a New set-up would be in the 1000 mile range. You should be good with a used gear for a while. IT is totally your call no more that 10k unless you hear noise like chatter in the clutches/ cones in the turns THEN listen to the rear as it is telling you it is TIME. Open diff you can go 30K with out and oil change. Had a s-10 and drove it 60K before i changed the oil ...lol. Not what you should do BUT ...it happened. It was only a open diff. LSD rears create more heat and debris than open diffs. We usually are harder on our muscle car/ trucks so that is the reason. J D Race Jim
....and there are plenty that never got changed. It's one of those parts of the car that most people never thought about.