Thanks Update:0.030 pinion shim, and 0.009 in backlash. I have now installed the oil seal, crush sleeve and pinion. The pinion preload is 13 inch pound. I am afraid to tighten to much. I have good tools for this, so there was no trouble to thigten the nut. I was on/off with the tool and checked the pinion preload about 15 times, an ended up with 13 inch pound. Should i thigten more, ore should i leave it there ? (New bearings)
If you are using new bearings the specs if I recall are 20-25 inch pounds. And whenever I get one there to me it feels tight, buts they say they loosen up. 10-15 is used bearing specs if u recall. On new I normally shoot for 17 to 20. Never had an issue and does not feel as tight as 25. I would snug it up some if you aim for 17 and go slightly over you still have a cushion. From here though a dab will go a long way, you have some good hold tools there. If your handle for your holder will hit the ground I would let it, that way you not pushing and pulling putting twice the pressures yourself, that will make it easier to just nudge the nut, cause it shoot up quickly from here. Make sure you have lots of oil on the bearings when checking this setting, and use the actual fluid you will be running, a dry bearing here will read differant too.
From all the other patterns you got HOW did you end up with such a nice pattern there? Must have done something different...??? Either you did not have the carrier snug in the carrier saddles or totally seated in the saddles etc. This is a perfect example of consistency being a MUST to try and get a pattern to mislead you.
Chevy 10 bolt c clip axle, 8.2. New bearings, used gears 3:08. Final assembly. I have now pressed on the pinion bearing. I got to much backlash so i added a 0.006 shim from right to left side and ended up with 0.009 in backlash. Left side (ring side) carrier shim are 0.249 and right side is 0.231. Pinion shim are 0.030 and pinion preload are 18 inch pound. Please take a look at the photos.
Not going to work. It's too far away. I know it is a used set,but even a used pattern will not look like that. Decreasing the backlash from .009" to .006" will not correct it enough. You had the same .030" pinion shim,and the same .009" backlash last week,and your pattern was different.It still needed some tweaking,but it was closer than what you have now. What changed? Are you sure you have a .030 in there,and not something less,like a .020"
I have to say that the setup bearing was "home made" by me. Grinding the inner surface. I had 0.011 backlash before switched the cartier shim
How many guys are showing patterns on this thread... Getting way to confusing... Please get your own thread if your going to show more patterns... Brian is correct on this something went away on your set-up. Gosh.... This is not where we wanted this to end up. Jim Again, I have tro say when your setting up these rear you have to be consistent or we can only help you so much. THIS has happened to me on occasion... usually a late evening doing too much in one day...or a pinion bearing being different than your set-up beaing all together. Which each time you swap the bearings and think you have it dead on it will change the depth setting because the bearings are too different ... WE are really trying to help as brian said looks too shallow on the pattern .... Crap.... Remember tighten the backlash on a shallow pattern will only make things worse. tightening the backlash will slightly tweak the pattern UP the face where as opening the pattern will make it move in the valley more. Try just because you have the bearing pressed on to the pinion.... open up the backlash a bit... Since that is really all we can play with for now. .247 and .233 see what that does to the pattern. USED gears will always require more backlash because they are used and most likely by the time you get to them they have many miles on the rear and bearings and stuff will be looser making the pattern slightly off than normal. Open that backlash and lets see where it goes. I REALLY wish I could get there for you and install this...
Torsdalen. I would not run that with that pattern, sorry for the confusion I was posting a picture to try to help see a good pattern, and show examples of how some teeth in a set are not all cut the same. Some changed bug time, I bet it's in your bearing you made......it was sitting not fully seated against the shim ir sonething. But you can fix this without having to pull that bearing as long as you don't need to go under the 030. If you need to go up its fixable. Ratech makes shims that go under the bearing race. They do the same thing as putting them under the bearing. I know your going to have some shipping but call ratech get the shim kit and the measuring tool ad I sujEstee earlier. Ypu spending alot of time guessing rather than measuring and knowing what you need to do
Ratech pinion tool 10002, shim kit 1133. They call these severe duty shims. You can also get a newer crush sleeve design that only takes about half the load to crush but still works great, if your used hears are aftermarket If your gears are factory and your crush sleeve is 2.440 long you have to get a new one of those, but if your sleeve is only .625 you can get 11003 The web site. They are in Cincinnati ohio. Easy to call and get help from
Thanks Brian. I tried to hone the bearing, but i give up after 0,5 hours, Then i grinded the inner surface with a rotating drill. (i know this is not the best way to do it) I know youkon have "set up bearings" for sale. The two bearings came from the same supplier.
Thanks Jim. Will try to adjust the backlash tomorrow. The first setup after i pressed the pinion bering on was 0.011 backlash, but i did not checked the gear pattern. The two pinion bearings i bought from you Jim, i assume they vere the same. I can seee that Yukon deliver new "setup bearings", do you have this bearings at your shop Jim ? And please tell me: is it easier to do a set up like this with new pinion and ring gear ?
The bearing that I use is a new one that I honed. I just used a wheel cylinder home,then cleaned it real good,to make sure all of the powder & debris were out. Those look like used Yukon gears,so they can't have crazy miles on them,compared to original GM's from the 60's. If you keep that bearing & shim in there,I'm not sure that you can get one thin enough,to put behind the bearing race. Maybe there is some info as to what the assortment includes.
If I recall they had a 5 or 7 in the last one I purchased, but I'm sure you could call and ask them or summit racing. They carry most of the ratech line up. I like to press the new bearing on with 20 to start. If the old race looks good do first setup and measurement on the old race, then I know where u need to go....normally 10 to 15 more, knock the old race out, clean up shim new race, Re measure depth. And it's almost within 1 or 2. I assume the new race gains a little. But we all agree that patter is hitting too hard in to little an area.
please just do little things before tearing everything up. Open the backlash so we can see were the pattern goes. I know everyone has an opinion and this is a web site for all. BUT we are never going to get this done it you keep jumping all over the place with all the opinions etc. You have my direct email also if you need to keep it one on one etc. Your call. Jim
