Poly mount- so bolted it up to spare tranni, crossmember. I can move ends of crossmember up and down quite easily. Dont think this is going to be an issue guys.
So what happens is there are interlocking tangs inside the mount,..the rubber engine mounts will allow more twist than the poly and you end up with something having to give,...the thicker bells on dime th400s will stand up to this much better than the thin bell trans
The TR guys have straps that work fine so any TR vendor has those,..or a chain off the PS bracket down to the frame off a tab
I'm running rubber motors and poly trans mount with TR strap. Definitely wanna run some sort of tie down with rubber/poly mount and more so if your running TH350. Chris
This is how I installed a torque strap on my GS. It connects to the plate that I added to the front of my Aluminum head. Much easier to do when you don’t have a power steering pump in the way.
Thanks guys. I’ll figure something out when I install the 470, as I have to space the accessories to line up with my ATI balancer. So the plate on head is a good starting point.
Fortunately i have the HD case, but will be adding torque strap. Here is description of required materials. I used 1 1/2 long 7/16 bolts to attach mount to tranni. With the 3/16 plate, plus the Energy Suspension mount plates, you’ll want min 1 1/4 inch long bolts. The angles can be copied by using 1/4 graph paper and match the template. Again, this was for my turbo 400, short tail shaft in a GS.
Sorry for hijacking the thread on the installation of a u-joint - just trying to clarify. Let me know if I got it right. Also I fixed the diagram in post 91.
I hold before you my driveshaft loop(The Zepnick Loop) . Just put primer on it. It bolts to the underside of the crossmember. $80 in material which I still overpaid I think.
WOW! Looks great!! 80 bucks in materials does make yah think if it’s better to buy one ready made, BUT I understand the satisfaction of doing it yourself
When I was pricing this out, I felt like most of the material cost was coming from the 5" ID tubing to make the actual loop part. What's to stop someone from making a rectangular shaped one using cheaper 1/4" wall flat bar mild steel?
