Guys what am I looking at for just the cost of material for a paint job? Good quality paint I know TOTL is bloody expensive. Got most to all the tools just haven't touched them in 35+ years.. Lots Of sanding needs to be done like bare metal.
Depending on Grade of paint and color not counting , primers $1000 to $1600 . These products have been going up a lot the last 4 years.
Your numbers are going to vary vastly depending on the angle you're going at... A gallon of GOOD body filler is ~$75 Polyester primer gallon (I use Evercoat SuperBuild) - $120 Epoxy primer and hardener - $220 2K surfacer - 200-250 Base gallon (can be cheaper as long as clear is high quality) - $300-800 Reducer gallon - $50 Clear gallon - $200-1000 Hardener - $50 You'll have $200 in buffing compounds and pads Don't forget seam sealer, lacquer thinner, Sand paper 40, 80, 180, 220, 320, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000 grits, chemical stripper (that's $50 a gallon), wire wheels, putty knives, paint brushes for seam sealer, masking tape and paper, plastic, etc.... I have a spreadsheet that I use for estimating, and also keeping track of actual materials used....just adding up the column for all of the stuff listed is over $2500. That only includes ONCE PIECE of each sand paper. I will also use more than one gallon of black epoxy and polyester primer on every job, too. It's a whole different story if you're just doing a scuff-and-shoot job. But even those tend to snowball sometimes, too.
SPI guy here. SPI Epoxy primer, SPI 2K primer , SPI BaseCoat White and SPI Universal Clear. Ran about $2400 or so, but I used the Epoxy on everything, frame ,core support,, engine bay , inner fenders , backside of fenders , trunk , gastank, etc. I also have a gallon of clear left, enough to do another project car... Jim Painted it in my tiny 2 stall garage... As Smartin said , it all depends on what your getting into and how far, and if you own all the tools . I had to buy a few things Devilbiss Finishline paint gun for basecoat and clear, buffing/polishing machine/tool etc. JIM
I would like to add that you can call and talk to the owner, Barry at SPI. Not too many owners pick up the phone and spend time answering questions etc. When I was hesitant to take my car down to bare metal,, he turned me around and instructed me how to do it and how important it was to do it right. Great guy....
Im very impressed with both their site & forum.... Its like just v8buick.... The owner interacts......
Not to hijack the thread but is there a paint that a guy can paint in his garage with door open and not kill himself. I have a beard so getting a good seal is not easy.
Lacquer is safer than 2 pack, I suppose. You can grow whiskers back but not body organs, just something to consider. I would put my safety first. Funny question coming from a dr!
LOL. Yes beards grow back. Mine is a slow grower. I really just asking, the body on my car is good the paint is bad, faded. I could see me going with primer and being happy with that.
Quick answer: NO! Isocyanates will kill you over time. I wouldn't even mix modern car paint without wearing a decent mask with new filters.... JIM
A supplied-air respirator is real nice. Prices start around $400 for a Hobbyair 1 setup: http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=HP These are nice for sandblasting too, especially on a hot day..... the fresh breathing air keeps you cooler. I did see this budget one on e-Bay, only $217. No idea of the quality. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-L...140071?hash=item21862ee167:g:qXsAAOSw8QFgWGCm
Absolutely no telling how much of that stuff I've put thru and in my body,...I'm sure it or my heart taking a vacation will be my demise
Thanks guys. I will avoid the Isocyanatesbadshit. Hugger my best friends dad was a body man from the 50's-90's . I don't know how you guys do it.
